TRAVEL DIARY SOUTH AFRICA/BOTSWANA

August & September 2004

9/8
Sue arrives late, plane sits for 15 minutes on tarmac, then spent one and a quarter hours getting thru customs and immigration. At Gail’s ,Sue took a sleeping tablet and 20 seconds later, her head was almost in the soup. She felt like a drunk, as muscles collapsed, and Gail had to help her into bed. Gail checked every hour or so, that Sue was still breathing!

10/8
Sort out finances, American Express, delivered plants to Betty, then a very ordinary Chinese supper with Molly, as the Portugese, calamari place had moved

11/8
Departed 7.30am and drove 940 km to Three Sisters. Had a great cappuccino, at Parys, a half-hour stop, at Ventersburg, to buy delicious biltong and Sue to sign the wall of butchers shop. BBQ chicken picnic out of car boot, at Edenburg, at 2.00pm, arrived at Three Sisters B & B just after 6.00pm and had a lamb stew supper, in the dining room, walked under the bright stars.

12/8
Cold early in the morning, but turned into a delightful day, weather wise, sunny with no clouds. Filled with petrol at Beaufort West, saw the odd wildflower on the road to Prince Albert. The valley was very pictuesque & Swartberg Pass, which was truly magnificent,,with its red rock, in the middle of the day. We spent a few hours in the Pass and headed for Mossel Bay, to fill with petrol. We left MB at 4.45pm for the long drive (approx 384 km) to Greyton Lodge. Thank goodness for our guide dog, (car in front) which led us at great speed, for most of our journey. Got to Greyton around 7.40pm - the lodge had phoned not long B4 checking if we were expected!. Dinner, in front of a log fire, was salad, rack of lamb and bottle of red wine, we walked around the village after supper

13/8
Half hour walk B4 breakfast, around Greyton village. It was a nice drive to Hermanus, over Shaw’s Mountain Pass. Three Southern Rite Whales, lolling in the bay, quite close to us. Picnic lunch in the wild winds, then some delicious grilled fish, B4 a scenic circular drive, back to Caledon for coffee. Then sat in car by the side of a dam looking for Blue Cranes. We saw two only, supper and a half hour walk around Greyton..

14/8
Woke early, half hour walk B4 breakfast. We left 8.15am for Montagu, via the dirt road to Riviersonderd.. Loved the red rocky entrace to Montagu and the tunnel thru the rock, to enter the very quaint Cape Dutch town, surrounded by mountains. It was market day spent time at Visitor’s Centre than walked around the most delightful town. Then onto wine tasting in the Robertson Valley, at Zandvleit, Von Loouvens & Graham Beck. Gale force winds had sprung up as we tried for a car boot picnic,at Graham Beck about 1.30pm. Got to McGregor, for the food & wine festival about 2.15am and the rain was not far behind us, which made all the market stalls, by the roadside, pack up and leave! Woman in the info centre a ding a ling, we drove around McGregor, in the rain, to sight see, as decided not to pay to go into the church hall, for food & wine tasting. Robertson, for coffee and some rugby on the TV, NZ v SA. Heavy rain on drive back to Greyton, then our walk after supper.

15/8
Woke to more rain, were at Genadendal (3km from Greyton) by 9.30am to see the villagers (coloureds) walking to church, in their Sunday best. Genadendal, founded as a Moravian Mission station, built 1737, a most picturesque village, with church, missionaries houses & gardens, water mill, & museum. We were enthralled to see inside the church, & to see the multitude arrive for service. The church bell rang, the choir sang and the brass band warmed up & then played. Pure magic.. Back to Hermanus to find the Glass House. We phoned upon arrival in Hermanus, for directions, and were virtually parked outside when we rang! We then tasted wine in the same craft village, purchased plenty. Drove the coastal route to Cape Town via Kleimond for cooked fish, then to Betty’s Bay to visit the Harold Pinter Fynbos Gardens, we saw baboons a plenty, one sitting on top of a light pole! Walked around the lovely gardens and waterfall and a HUGE baboon confronted us! Onto the penguin colony at Betty’s Bay to see the African (Jackass) penguins at play. Also saw 2 x dussies, along with the usual cormorants. It was now after 5,00pm and we drove to Cape Town in the pouring rain . It was sobering to drive past three HUGE informal settlements (townships or shanty-towns). Arrived at Sandra & Dave Griffiths, at Llandudno, just after 7.00pm, about 2 minutes after they had phoned us to see if we were lost! Soon into the champagne and the food, and nice to have our own rooms

16/8 Cape Town
Woke to heavy rain, retail therapy at the HUGE new shopping complex, Canal Walk, full of fancy/expensive shops, without hardly a customer. Sue bought a zebra carry bag only. Onto the Waterfront for a delicious hot beef salad lunch & cappuccino B4 moving onto the craft section, where we spent a great deal of time, buying fridge magnets and such, then trying on exclusive Solveig’s jackets. Sandra dropped Sue off at Anne Aitken’s to spend the night and Gail had dinner with her Aunt & Uncle

17/8 Cape Town
Sue was dropped off by Ian, to S & D’s by 7.45am. Sue almost run over by Sandra, as she gunned her utility, up their steep drive, Hair raising for Sandra & Sue. We faffed and left about 11.00am, for the Waterfront, both of us bought a smart, Solveig jacket. Drove to Muizemberg, then to Kalkbaai for excellent fish & chips and to see the fleet come in, with their catch of snoek. Onto Simon’s Town ,to a super craft shop with magnificent African curios, B4 a most interesting afternoon tea, with Vivienne Meyerson, at The Rectory. It felt like living in a museum as so many antiques, furnishings and fantastic, funny stories. A most wonderful afternoon, Left about 5.30 to be back at Llandudno, for a lamb roast with Barbara, a friend of Sandra & Dave

18/8 Cape Town
Woke to a sunny 21 degree day for a change. Walked the two Rhodesian Ridgeback dogs, with Sandra, along the bush/coastal track and down to the beach. Back for breakfast and we left at 11.00 for some wine tasting, in the Durbanville area. We had a very disappointing lunch, at the Poplars, with Sandra. Came back via Bloubergstrand, to see a great view of Table Mountain and over 25 kite-surfers, jumping/flying over the waves, with a keen wind, wonderful. Took the scenic route over Kloof Nek, to see the 12 Apostles, then a sunset drink of Savanna cider, at Le Med, at Camps Bay, with a magnificent view of the mountains and sea,.

19/8 Cape Town
Walked the dogs with Sandra, then Gail & Sue walked Llandudno Beach, late breakfast and a late start. We walked Long Street, had a borewors roll, then to District Six Museum. It was most interesting for Gail, as her grandfather had his shop, in that district and a lot of the volunteers, at the museum knew of him, his brother and his shop. High tea at the Mount Nelson Hotel (the Nellie, one of Cape Town’s oldest) with Sandra and friends, for half price pension rates. Fun, with the staff at the entrance with their pith-helmut hats.. The table cloth (clouds) were coming over Table Mountain as we left. Back to Sandra’s briefly as then off to Kalkbaai Kitchen, for a one-man show, & supper on S.A television. Great show and great food, cauliflower & gorganzola soup, salmon in philo pastry and malvina pudding and coffee. We won’t forget the interaction of the audience, with “sheila’ and the “three lesbians?”

20/8  Cape Town to Picketberg
Left S & D’s about 11.10pm down to Hout Bay to buy shoes for Gail, after a quick look at the Bay, Lunch at the New York Bagel, yum!, Hot beef on rye bread. Drove to the West Coast National Park for our first sighting of wild flowers, good colour and variety. Almost dark when we arrived at Piketberg, at 6.30pm and stayed at Dunn’s Castle, built in 1890. We ate our roast lamb sandwiches on the front verandah, for dinner. HUGE bathroom down the hall was all ours, a football team could have fitted in there,

21/8 Piketberg – Clanwilliam
Woke to a heavy mist, could not see the car parked close by! Seems we went over some picturesque mountain passes, but all we saw was mist!. Got to Clanwillian around 10.30am, as the fog/mist was lifting. Straight to the Velskoene shop, where Gail purchased her shoes and got talking to the manager. He gave us great local knowledge. We followed instructions and went out of town, on dirt road of course, heading toward Pakhuis Pass. There was the most outstanding rock formations, the imagination went wild. On return, we booked in at a remote farmhouse B & B we had passed on the way up, Kleinkliphuis, no electricity, just hurricane lamps The owners there said we should follow the road all the way to Wupperthal (74 km from Clanwilliam0 down the steep Kouberb (Cold Mounatin pass). Back to Clanwilliam to buy lunch and supplies and visit the most beautiful Ramskop Gardens, a planted display of the most colourful & magnificent, wildflowers, with mountains in the distance, it was wonderful for the senses. Back on the dirt/mountain road again to go the Moravian Misson village, of Wupperthal built 1830. We arrived at 4.45pm as the Australia.v South Africa rugby match finished and we had almost an empty tank of petrol. After a long wait we managed to get 8 litres out of the one & only petrol pump in the village! We were wondering who could possibly accommodate us in this wee place, if we had to stay the night. Back to our farmhouse B & B to light our 3 hurricane lamps. We had a simple dinner, by lamplight.

22/8  Clanwilliam, Lamberts Bay, Niewoudtville, Vanrhynsdorp
Misty again as we left. Clanwilliam, Fog lifted at Lamberts Bay, fresh fish breakfast, Bird Island to see colony of 30,000 Cape Gannets, Drove up the coast road to Vredendal, to make Niewoudtville for tour of McGregors Farmto see masses of colourful wildflowers and the 4 different eco-systems on the farm. We toured the farm in an old bus. Neil McGregor very knowledgable and very well connected, but a BIG name dropper like, Sir this, and Professor that, as well as David Attenborough thrown in! Still, it was a magnificent tour. Here we were, in the middle of nowhere, late Sunday afternoon, with no accommodation booked! Back to Vanrhynsdorp, tried two B & B’s that could not accommodate us. One called his friend, Mr Van Zyl, who came to fetch us and take us to his private home. They were an Afrikaans couple, not being strong with the English language, yet made us very welcome and he teased us a lot, They told us where to go for a reasonable meal at the local garage. The Van Zyls sat up and waited for us, and we felt sure they were reading their bibles, as we looked at out maps for the next day!

23/8 Vanrhyansdorp, Skilpad, Kamieskroon
Our hosts up at 6.00am, cooking a HUGE breakfast, porridge et al. They gave us scrambled egg sandwiches for the road and a discount, as Gail did not eat a BIG breakfast! Went to the local succulent nursery, Gail bought a half dozen cactaii.. Delighted to see real wild flowers by the roadside, as we drove further north, an we stopped for photo opportunities. Aborted a dirt/gravel mountain pass, near Garies, as far too rough, the hubcap rattled off the car, as we made our return journey. There were now fields of flowers along the way, with great splashes of colour,. The arrival in Kamieskroon, at 2.30pm was spectacular, the local church, with it’s white church spire, was surrounded by wildflowers, it was the prettiest picture. A bumpy road into Skilpad National Park was worthwhile, as the fields and fields of (mostly orange) flowers, took our breath away! Skilpad spectacular!. Stopped at “Cosy Mountain B & B” on way back to our hotel around 5.00pm as it was such a beautiful setting. Gail got chatting to the manger and booked us in for dinner at 7.00pm with Peter & Estelle,(the lovley lady & grumpy old man) as it looked more charming (and less expensive) than our hotel built in 1921. We drank and chatted and chatted and drank. Dinner was served about 9.00pm (chicken pie and salad) and Sue was almost under the table! At 10.30pm we stood up to leave, even so, we talked some more, till about 11.15pm!

24/8 Kamieskroon to Uppington
 Departed 9.45am to drive 60 km to Springbok, on a beautiful, sunny day. Went straight to Information Centre to be told no wild flowers in the area and none at Goegup National Park. We visited the local museum, in an old synagogue. Shopping at Checkers to buy another BBQ chicken and great wee yoghurts. Long, boring stretch of road to Uppington, after the beautiful scenery we had seen to date, saw the odd donkey cart, and numrous social weaver bird’s nests, on light poles, to keep us amused! Almost ran out of petrol again, with one and a third litres left in tank! Found the tourist bureau open late, they directed us to the Eland Holiday Chalets, run by the council. Very good indeed, we had our own kitchenette and TV. The approach was the longest avenue of date palms, in the Southern Hemisphere. Had our Savanna’s purchased in Springbok, then headed for the Le Must restaurant, in Uppington, as offered a discount, plus a free glass of wine each. First glance, we thought restaurant great, but staff too familiar, lamb cutlet stack were far too tough to eat, so Gail ate her meal alone B4 Sue’s second meal, a lamb shank, was delivered around 10.15pm Far too late!

25/8 Uppington to Witsand
Up town Uppington to buy supplies for Witsand Nature Reserve, Sue missed the turn off and took us 40kms out of our way. Hence we had to turn around and travel back only to arrive, in Witsand about 1.30pm We were the only guests in the cheap cabins (with buck grazing outside) so we had the kitchen and ablution block to ourselves! Late lunch and went to a couple of look-out points, then to climb the sand dunes, but Sue only made it halfway, as hard work and very hot and a lot of prickly bushes to go too far on the track. We drove around game spotting and saw lots of springbok, lucky to see gemsbok, baby monkeys, then saw a HUGE social weaver birds’ nest in a tree, en route to a bird hide, all we saw was one buck drinking from the water. After a Savanna and nibbles, we went out for a night drive, to see lots of buck

26/8 Witsand – Johannesberg
Sue almost snored the roof off last night, so a midnight walk, around camp was ordered by Gail! Buck grazing around our cabin as we woke. Back to bird-hide early, to see three springbok drink from the water hole and lots of LBJ’s. A quick walk thru the bush garden, B4 we departed Witsand at 10.30am. It was 70kms of really bad gravel/sand road to reach Olifantshoek, to buy (almost) raw biltong, from a very friendly butcher. A tasty hamburger lunch, at Kuruman, then 20 km outside Vryberg, we almost had a blowout! Limped into Vryberg at a much slower pace. Went to Nissan garage to find that we had lost a whole flap of tyre, on back wheel, about 12 inches long. We were lucky ladies indeed and we had to buy a new tyre. It was now about 4.20pm and felt we could still make Jo’burg that night.. We got lost near Randfontein, even though we followed the signs, as our map not detailed enough. Gail hailed a man in his car, who guided us onto the main road,. We arrived at Gail’s flat, around 9.30pm, it was after 10.00pm B4 we had unpacked the car. Soup & toast for dinner, bed at midnight. We drove 5500 km in the two weeks and Gail drove most of that!

27/8 Gail took her car early, to be completely detailed, as there was red dust in every nook and cranny, the hubcaps full of sand/dirt. Sue had a faffing morning, then Betty took us to Pick N Pay to do BIG grocery shop, then off to Balfour Park, in a sparkling (what seemed like) a new car, to have anchovy toast and cappuccinos. Went to shul at Highlands North/.Sydneham, to hear their superb choir. Gail had to loan Sue a skirt to wear, with her new blouse that she had just bought, as slacks a no no.. Molly’s after shul for a very nice supper.

28/8 Johannesburg
Betty drove the two of us to Lee’s 60th birthday breakfast, at Cambridge Park, there were about a dozen women, all friendly and interesting. Betty had to play bridge, so were home after noon. Went on a progressive dinner at night, with the new Solo Club, Sushi at Beryl’s, nice house, then 5 of us in a car drove to Jo Meintjes, for starters, then to Elaine’s for lasagne and salad, in a very posh./expensive townhouse. Margie’s for her fabulous desserts, even though it was rather late to be eating at 11.30pm! Back to Beryl’s to collect the car and got to bed around 1.30am! Gail much later, after watching Olympics

29/8 Johannesburg
Went to collect photos B4 heading off to Rosebank Markets Sue bought some beaded mats for presents plus a large wooden elephant! Plus a lovely table-cloth, & beaded pickle fork. Had samousas, for a quick bite. Headed for Sammy Marks’ House, near Pretoria, but got lost en route. Sue had to go into a pub to ask directions, Quick lunch in the garden, sharing a table with two girls from The Netherlands. We had the most informative guide to take us on a tour thru the magnificent house of the Victorian era, built in the 1800s and it was considered a farm in the 1900s.We learned a lot! It was a wonderful outing and to see all the wealth and furnishings that were there, They would have been bought in Europe, shipped to South Africa, then by bullock wagon, up to near Pretoria. HUGE billiard room. Had a brief visit to Charlotte, Gail’s neighbour, who was friendly with Sammy Marks’ daughter. Stir fry supper, watching the closing ceremony of Olympics, plus watched with disbelief, as marathon runner, from Brazil, got a king hit and was shoved off the road, after leading the marathon for most of the race

30/8 Johannesburg
Sonny arrived after 8.30am for a brief love in. Took forever to change travellers cheques at the bank as they had to phone American Express Shopped at Pick N Pay . Renee’s for late chicken salad lunch and Sue anxious to get back to flat, as Dawn was coming for zucchini & brie soup supper and apple pie. Watched Gail’s excellent video of “Pale Male” ,

31/8 Johannesburg
Hartesbeesport for biltong and the fabulous De Wildt Cheetah Reserve, with Wild dogs, saw lots of both plus the impressive King Cheetah Back to flat about 6.15pm, quick juice with Betty, then delicious dinner turkey roll and tasty gravy.

1/9 Johannesburg 
Soweto tour for Sue, she was mad as hell, after waiting 1.5 hours for her guide to collect her from Grand Hyatt Hotel, Rosebank. An hours sleep for Sue after stressful/.hot morning, then Bea & Jim came for red pepper soup supper B4 going to a great show “Big Band Blast” at Civic Theater, which we all thoroughly enjoyed.

Thursday 2/0 Jo’burg – Zambia
Rob collected us at 8.45am to take us to airport for our fight to Livingstone, Zambia ,a one hour 40 minute flight, a hot lunch was served, Arrived in Livingstone at 1.30pm and Sue had trouble getting thru immigration, as seemed her visa, was not on the list. After 20 mins or so, it was found and our driver took us to the Zambezi Waterfront lodge, right on the Zambezi River. We had out own chalet, with fan and mosquito nets, though hellish hot.. Walked around the grounds and went on a sunset cruise at 4.00pm Lots to eat and drink, though food was all fried and not so nice, but saved us buying dinner. Nice sunset and saw a crocodile on the bank and 5 hippos together one with his mouth wide open. Also spotted two huge elephants in the bush. Huge read ball of a sun, sank into the Zambezi River, with many a cruise boats to watch .Back to lodge around 6.30pm, in the dark, greeted by a maramba, band. . Sat on deck overlooking river for some time, with drinks, B4 going to our chalet to try and find a plug to boil water, we were on out knees, to finds the under the dressing table!


3/9 Zambezi Waterfront Lodge, Victoria Falls and Livingstone Museum
All by taxi and hellishly hot. In the afternoon on deck, we saw elephants crossing the river from island to mainland. A python was the main attraction, under the deck of the lodge

4/9 Zambia to Botswana
We were impressed the friendliness and punctuality of all staff.. A man met us, with a van at 9.00am to drive us to the border at Kazungum, a one hour journey, thru nice countryside. Long line of lorries and trucks, waiting at the river, by ferry. We went straight to passport control, our driver got our passports stamped. He took us to the riv4er bank and we climbed aboard a 6 seat out board motor boat. As we crossed the river, we saw where the 4 countries meet, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Namibia and Botswana. A safari truck was there to meet us and then drive us to Chobe Game Lodge . Margie, the manager, was out the front to welcome us and give us our welcome drinks, plus our activities for the two days, After lunch the two of us went on our river safari with Millie, saw 3 lions in the shade of a tree, an abundance of elephants and hippos, a puff adder, swimming across the river, a huge crocodile 5 or 6 meters long and lots birds, it was a hot 30 degrees, in the shade. Back for afternoon tea, then at 4.00pm we set out in our safari truck, with our guide, Richard. We again saw an abundance of elephants, at one stage surrounded by them. At sundown, we saw single files of elephants, silently making their way down to the river, awesome. We also saw about 20 elephants at a water hole, with 3 warthogs in front and giraffe stooping to drink! Gin & Tonic for sundowners with a plate of prawn cutlets, samousas and such, Life is tough. The lodge was perfectly situated overlooking the river and out to Caprivi strip. our room had the same perfect view, overlooking the swimming pool. Back at 6.30pm for dinner at 7.30pm – just 10 of us for dinner.

5/9 Chobe Gamer Lodge
Woke at 5.40am for our cup of tea and 6.30am safari. Baboons with a tiny baby at play. A massive buffalo herd, in file possibly 1000 of them! River cruise at 10.30,, the high point was 107 elephants by the waters edge and 50 yards down river, were another 68 elephants! Just amazing., Also saw a man poling his real mokoroa, (canoe) like ancient times, Again, temperatures 30 degrees in the shade. After buffet lunch, we saw a wild life video on Botswana. Afternoon game drive at 4.00pm saw giraffe, zebras, vultures in a tree, after a kill. Looking over to the Namibian bank we saw what seemed like hundreds of elephants & buffalo over there, while we had our sundowner drinks, to watch the setting sun. We were the only 2 guests that night, in a 46 room hotel. Three course dinner served in our room on silver service, At 8.40pm Sue went down to the main part hotel to get some soda water to drink, and scared the night manager as she was locking up with many keys and chains. Sue managed to break her SLR camera as it fell out of her back- pack when in a hurry, camera was never to work again, tragic.

Monday 6/9 Chobe – Savute 
 Another 5.40 am rise, to go on early morning safari drive with Richard., saw lots of magnificently coloured birds, including the Lilac Breasted Roller, the national bird of Bostwana, There were pelicans perched in the trees, kudu, buffalo and close to lodge,. we were extremely close to several elephants, almost touching distance . Back to lodge at 9.30am for breakfast. Reluctant to leave Chobe,as it seemed like heaven for elephants and other flight to Savute. It is only 200km away, but road so bad it takes 4-5 hours to drive. Met Tom, our 21 year old, cherub faced, Canadian pilot, of our 6 seat, Cessna aeroplane. Landing strip at Savute was just dirt, in the bush. Were met by Parks, our guide for our two days, then a 15 min drive to Camp Savute (24 beds) met by the manger and his wife (Lisette & Mark), with welcome drinks. We had a very smart cabin, just one minute walk, from main lodge, though had to have a guide collect/take us in the mornings and evenings, in case we came across wild animals. Cabin superb, floor to ceiling glass frontage, looking out onto our verandah (covered) which then, looked out to our very own water hole! As we sat down to our lunch, three elephants came to drink from our water hole, magic!. Afternoon tea at 3.00pm was at the main deck, overlooking the main water hole, as if on cue, 30 elephants filed down to the water hole to drink. There were several little ones, one so small he must have been just a month or two old! It was hot mid 30s temperature. Game drive from 3.30pm, first saw two cheetah asleep in the shade, elies, kudu and impalas close by. The sight of the trip was coming across a dead elephant (died of natural causes) with 28 lions feeding upon it..3 males, 7 females, the rest were wonderful cubs! Cubs were sunning themselves on top of the elie, females were half inside the belly cavity of the elie and big daddy was chomping, by the ear of the elie. The elephant had died 4-5 days prior. The stench was awful if you were downwind, but otherwise OK. Two vultures were in the tree, looking on, It was a true picture of a day in the life of a lion,it was superb to witness , Back to camp 6.30pm to have a nice dinner on the viewing deck Lights went our about 9.45pm

7/9 Camp Savute
Collected at 6.40am for quick breakfast, to be on safari by 7.00am it was a lovely light. We headed straight for the feeding lions on the dead elephant, whom had more or less, had their fill, for the time being. The females and cubs were dozing in the shade of the trees, When the male lion came over to visit, it was wonderful to see one by one, each female lion and then their cubs, go and greet the King. They either licked him or rubbed against him to pay homage!. It was such a privilege to see.. The lions then walked into some high grass and we followed in the truck. We witnessed the females calling for their cubs in the long grass, and the cubs, mewing reply, Just wonderful.. After we saw giraffe, wildebeest and more birds. Back for brunch at 11.30am on the main viewing deck, a hot 36 degree day.. Sue met a couple from New York at the swimming pool (cold swim) and they joined us on safari in the afternoon. Back to the dead elephant to find that the lions had moved away, We found them eventually, and were so close, we were almost looking down their throats as they yawned! Back to camp for an excellent dinner, at the viewing deck. We had drinks at main lodge, B4 dinner and the staff treated us to, what seemed like, an impromptu show, singing and dancing, superb! Elephants played/splashed in our water hole, outside our cabin, all night long and a roaring lion walked close by, it was truly amazing!

6/8 Savute to Okavando Delta
The lion was still in the camp this morning, you could hear him, but could not be seen! Game drive on our own this morning, due to our early departure, Saw a lion lolling on the grass, the odd elephant and impala. We were duly looking at a giant eagle owl, when the call came thru that a leopard had been spotted. Parks drove at great speed slithering and sliding thru the dirt, to get us to the leopard, easily seen thru binoculars, in the long grass, but Sue had trouble seeing him on the rocks! She saw him as a dot, with the naked eye, but could not find him with the binoculars. Saw more colourful birds and came across another dead elephant, it appeared to be young, disturbing. No animal had touched it yet. Had a quick look at the curio shop B4 departing, at 11.20am. Tom the pilot came to fetch us and fly us the 40 min flight, to the Okavango Delta, it was good to see it from the air and the fingers of water making its way thru the reeds/grass. A grass airstrip- this time, and were greeted by the manager, Karol, and his staff, with damp face cloths to cool off. Walked the grass path into Camp Okavango, which took about 3 minutes. Welcome drinks in the cool thatched main area. & met Pila, Chilean wife of Karol, and had our lunch, quiche, salads and a delicious pasta salad. Our accommodation was a permanent tent on a wooden platform, we had a front deck, electricity plus an ensuite bathroom, it was hot inside, even with a fan. Afternoon tea was served a 3,30 before departing on a small boat tour,(8 of us plus John, our guide) along the many channels of the Delta.. The channels were lined with tall papyrus reeds, so tall, one could not see any animals, plus, we were sure the motor scared them off! Saw a couple of crocodiles, water lillies and had the usual sun-downer drinks, there were a couple from Australia. Dinner, silver service, was in thatched dining room. The staff treated us to a song and dance show, around the open fire to conclude the evening. Spent the evening with an American couple from Oregon, Bob & Penny Cold night, the thermals got an airing

9/9 Camp Okavango
Left 7.00am on the boat, just the two of us, with two guides. fore & aft. We went for walks on three islands, on a very hot day. Saw monkeys, buffalo, hippos in a distant pool after a long walk, then wart hog, giraffe impala. Back to camp at 11.30am for brunch. Sat in the cool of the trees to listen to the wonderful bird-calls, which seemed non stop, as bird life prolific. Afternoon was spent on a mokoro (canoe) with John poling us along. Very peaceful and very hot, with the sun beating down on us. It was delightful, as we silently passed thru the reeds, saw crocodiles and birds. . He had two New Zealanders, in a mokoro, behind us, then met up with three Japanese ladies, in two mokoros. Gail thought it was Christmas, as we spotted red bougainvillea in the water, about three feet high! As we got closer, our breath was taken away, as we were welcomed to the Okavango Bar! What style! Here was one of our guides, almost knee deep in water, in the middle of the channel, beside a small table with white cloth, the vase full, with the tall bougainvillea and the table filled with drinks! “Welcome to the Okavango Bar, what you like to drink?” Needless to say, the sunset, made it the perfect setting.

10/9 Camp Okavango,  Maun, Johannesburg
At 7.00am John, our guide, raced the boat thru the numerous papyrus reed channels, for one hour and a half, Gail thought we maybe being kidnapped! We were half way towards Camp Moremi, when we arrived at his surprise site, a huge bird colony! Hundreds of huge birds, nesting on top of tree branches, many birds with chicks. We were close enough to hear the birds wings beating, as they flew over us and could clearly see, the grass/branches, they were bringing back, in their beaks, to build their nests. So many wonderful, colourful birds, it was truly an amazing and wonderful sight, and a fitting end, to a fantastic visit to Bostwana,. Saw an elephant down by the water’s edge to have a drink, a few minutes later, he disappeared without trace, into the papyrus reeds. On our way back in boat saw a huge Saddlebilled storks, our favoutite, fly close by us, plus we say his partner and two huge chicks, perched high on top of a tree. Back for brunch at 11.30am, quick shower and pack for our 1.20pm flight (30 minutes) to Maun, with a young New Zealand pilot . It was a much better view over the Okavango Delta, this time, as you could see for miles, the fingers of water, snaking their way across the landscape. Our 3.00pm flight to Johannesburg (one hour) was a little bumpy. Gail’s friend, Molly, was there to fetch us. Dashed off to a great seafood dinner at Bea & Jim’s plus champagne & crème de cassis, mixed! Back to Gail’s flat at 12.15am very tired and Sue with a sore throat.

11/9 Johannesburg
Hot day faffing, supplies shopping. travellers cheques exchanged, collecting photos, then sorting thru each other’s, to see what copies we wanted. Delicious African dinner, at Moyo’s, at Market Theatre, Sue had her first tangine, which went down well, though Sue now is feeling very unwell

12/9 Johannesburg – Sydney
Last visit to Rosebank Markets to get gifts. Delicious lunch, on verandah restaurant, at Rosebank, of chicken & paw- paw salad. Sue feeling not well at all, back to the flat to pack and were at the airport at 4.10pm sad to say goodbye!