30th June 2005 – 5th August 2005
30/6
Gail had a 40 hour trip door to door to Seattle & Sue had a 32 hour journey! Flooding rains in Sydney delayed flight out, of Sydney, so Sue missed her connecting domestic flight in Honolulu. Spent 4 hours there for a 30 minute flight to Kona, on big Hawaii, for a 4 hour wait, for North West flight to Seattle & Sue was shocked when she had to pay $5.00 for a sandwich on the flight!
1/7
Sue arrives in Seatlle 5.30am after a 5 hour flight sans luggage! Has no idea if her luggage is in Honolulu or Kona! Sue kicks up a fuss and gets a search underway, by North West, who gave her an airline cosmetic bag, to tide her over. Sue takes downtown bus and arrives at the Executive Pacific Plaza Hotel at 7.0am! Sue phones Gail from reception, to advise of her arrival .Gail was mightily relieved, as Hawaiian Air had not phoned her as they had promised Sue that they would, Gail lay awake all night worrying what had happened. Needless to say, a lot of talking, before a refreshing shower and a walk down the street, to buy breakfast at a local drug store. By 10.45am Sue had wilted and came back to the hotel for a nap, while Gail went off to the Space Needle for a tour, After numerous phone calls searching for Sue’s luggage it finally arrived at the hotel just before 2.00pm without explanation, but Sue pleased never the less. Sue then rushed out to meet Gail at 2,15pm at Pikes Place, the world’s oldest operating market. We saw a lot of fish being thrown around with a lot of banter (for the tourists) at the fish market, which was a bit of fun. We then walked to the original Starbuck’s Coffee House (different logo to now) it was opened in 1912. A country fiddler out the front was making good foot tapping music, Walked up and down all the market stalls and then over to Post Alley for more shops. Sue went out looking for a slice of toast at 7.20pm but most shops shut for 4th July, hot bath and to bed by 10.00pm
2/7 SEATTLE
Both of us awake at 4.00am but lay there for another hour & half! Sue in reception at 7.00am trying to book a city tour but all booked out! Disappointed to, that Boeing factory was not open on the weekends, as tour had been highly recommended. We found a Mexican restaurant across from the hotel, which served a great breakfast 3 scrambled eggs with spinach, mushroom, potato & cheese & a scone for $3.99! Back to the hotel in the rain to collect our cameras & such from our room, when the fire alarm went off and we all had to evacuate the building via the fire stairs. There was a fire in the car park next door, but we were not allowed back inside to collect Sue’s camera, as we watched all the fire trucks arrive! As did our van, for our 3 hour city tour of Seattle & surrounds, the guide was far too chatty!. Seattle has many hills all leading down to the waters of Puget Sound, the Queen Anne area, had most magnificent old mansion on large blocks of land overlooking magnificent views of city & the sound. Then onto the Ballard Lochs, to witness the boats coming thru the lochs, then onto salmon ladder. Had a stop at Fisherman’s wharf, after passing the house-boats featured in the movie “Sleepless in Seatlle..”. We departed the tour at Pikes Place Market and had a delicious clam chowder for lunch, checked out the “Old Duffer” shop then down to the waterfront for an hour cruise around the harbour & Puget Sound.. We found out that a sound has two entrances and a bay, only has one!. 5.30pm Imax Theatre for Mount St Helens Volcano Eruptions, we got talking to the woman next to us, who had been there at the time! We climbed back up the long set of stairs to Pikes Place markets to buy garlic pepper salmon for supper. Were fortunate to get a free bus ride back to our hotel by 7.00pm to pack and talk to Wanda, bed 11.30pm
3/7 SEATTTLE-ANCHORAGE-SELDOVIA
Reception woke us a half-hour early at 3.00am!!! Shuttle bus at 4,15am to the airport for 6.00am flight (3.5 hours) to Anchorage. Arrived 8.30am local time and arranged a free shuttle bus to the Millenium Hotel, to leave our large suitcases. Had a quick walk around the grounds, lake and the hotel shop. Took the shuttle bus to Lake Hood, the light plane airport. There were no roads to Great North Air, so we drove along the runways! Our 11.00am flight to Seldovia was delayed for 1.5 hours as our 6 seat plane, was being serviced. We spent the time chatting to Sahra, the grounds-person for GN Air, who was very efficient and found out information for us re our trip to Barrow, as all we had was a phone number!!! It was a very scenic flight to Seldovia, following a snow capped mountain ranges. Seldovia looked very picturesque from the air, “population 307 friendly people (multicultural) with a few old crabs” their 4th July Newsletter stated!. Laurel, our hostess, from Bear Paw B & B, was at the airport to greet us and took us for a tour of the town to get our bearings. We then walked downtown over the Seldovia Slough bridge. Walked from one end of town to the other (not long) and were thrilled to see a sea otter close to shore, then back to a clothing shop and met the owner and seamstress, Sharon Lewis and her friends Linda, Tim and their son, Ross. We got chatting and Sue bought a wonderful sea-otter T-shirt from Sharon, who had just opened her shop for the summer. Both very tired after our early morning start abut a good ice cream and a fish & chip late lunch perked us up. In and out of shops, and climbed the hill to the Russian Orthodox Church, now closed, built in 1891. We enjoyed the numerous painted fire hydrants all around the town and the slough, all very different, one was a tiger, one looked like a fireman etc, rather fun. We then walked the boardwalk, looking at the old timber houses hugging the shores of the slough, some had lovely gardens, all very picturesque with the mountains hovering behind. We noticed a lot of folk travel around Seldovia on Quad bikes, usually with a basket on the back, with a dog or two! At the Slough bridge, we watched some guys fishing for salmon in the river, the water was so clear, we were able to see the drama of it all! Walked the dirt road (one mile or so,) back to out B & B, Laurel had been worried that we had got lost when we had not retuned till 8.00pm! What a treat she had in store for us, marinated salmon pieces as a snack, plus just cooked, chocolate chip cookies, which melted in your mouth, followed by a wonderful soak on a hot tub! Bliss and what a treat!
4/7 SELDOVIA, Alaska
July 4th breakfast of sourdough pancakes, with whipped butter, syrup and moose sausages. Walked to town around 9.15am, went straight to Sharon Lewis shop. Both of us purchased a denim jackets with otters stitched on, divine. Sharon invited us to view the July 4th parade, from the shop verandah. .We were in & out of the shop all day long for a chat, The parade was fun, with the local teacher as commentator, the red, white and blue worn by children and numerous dogs! The Top of the World Sweet Adeline’s Choir paraded and sang, the floats were very unimaginative, a undecorated bob-cat won first prize and a beat up, very dilapidated 1976 Buick won second prize! At least it has red, white & blue decorations! Various prizes given to kids, dogs and there was a prize for a person that has traveled the longest distance to attend 4th July celebrations! It was a toss up between Gail and Sue and of course, Gail won! The prize as a bear that we had just witnessed being carved out of a log, by Toby, the chain saw artist, who had many animals carved out of wood, displayed on Sharon’s shop verandah. Toby, immediately yelled out “postage is not included” as the log bear was over knee high and mighty heavy!. Gail ended up giving the bear to our hostess, at Bear Paw B & B, as there was no way to get it back to South Africa. Gail, Toby and THE bear, were photographed & Gail interviewed, by the “Seldovia News” and photo was published!. A lot of people came to talk to us once it was made known that there were ladies from South Africa and Australia, announced over the PA. Sharon had called us her “cute VIP guests!” Tasty lunch and a concert, some good folk singing and other performers, we went for a walk, looking for a lake that we never found,. We then witnessed the plastic duck race from the bridge, which we had bet money, then back to watch the canoe jousting, out in the bay, quite a large crowd screaming and yelling with the wonderful backdrop of snow covered mountains. Back to the shop and Sharon kindly asked us to dinner, in her wee log cabin style home with Tim, Linda & Ross we had many laughs. We headed for our B & B at 8.00pm when Laurel, (from B & B) was passing and collected us, and delighted in another hot tub soak, it was still broad daylight at 11.0pm
5/7 Tuesday. SELDOVIA/HOMER
7.30am bacon & egg breakfast, airport by 8.30am fur our 16 minute flight, to Homer, it was just up and own really, over the most breathtaking and beautiful scenery, of snow capped mountains, extremely picturesque. Quote of the trip from Gail was, when we landed in Homer, she asked the pilot “Where are we?” “What are we doing here?” Sue disowned her of course! Took a taxi to Spit Road B & B, walked to confirm out Homer Stage Line Bus to Anchorage, Gail bought some beads next door. A $10 taxi ride to the Homer Spit, for a half day cruise the picture postcard perfect, artist’s colony, at Halibut Cove, via Gull Island, a bunch of rocks with lot of gulls, plus other birds and a few puffins, which were hard to spot. We enjoyed our Subway picnic (purchased at Homer) on the Isthmus, enjoying the view of snow-covered mountains, as a backdrop the pine trees, the marine blue water, with wee islands and the odd cottage, here and there, all connected via a boardwalk. We checked out the galleries of each artist, the Boardwalk Restaurant, in a superb situation. Then climbed the hill behind to have a superb panoramic view. We had seen one otter when leaving the Spit but none on our return. We had a tasty seafood chowder for supper and a chicken salad at a Chinese restaurant!. We phoned Carmen & Conrad Field, marine biologists, from our Antarctic voyage, on the off chance they would be at home. Were thrilled when they answered and invited us over, as they were very proud parents of five-week old, baby daughter Erin. We arrived at 8.20pm after a $20 taxi ride from The Spit, to their wonderful wooden house (mostly built by Conrad) with a magical view of snow covered mountains.. Conrad took us on a personal tour of his house, he is so artistic & clever in everything. We had delicious rhubarb cake and to Sue’s delight, Rooibus tea! Conrad kindly drove us back to our B & B.
6/7 Wednesday: HOMER
It was a noisy B & B on Spit Road, lots of traffic heading the The Spit, but enjoyed the waffles for breakfast. Gail had a bad back as we started walking to town at 9.15am, Sue hurried on ahead, as she wanted to put laundry in to be washed. Meanwhile, a woman driver, saw Gail hobbling along and she stopped to pick up Gail, Sue was quite perplexed to hear a car honking at her when she came out of the Laundromat, and the penny dropped, when Gail yelled at her to “get in!” The woman drove went out of her way to drop us off at the Pratt Museum, which was very good indeed.. Sue bought spiced Rooibos tea at the corner store, where there was a lot of wonderful products at a high price. We also checked out the bookshop for “Ada Blackjack” recommended to us by Carmen, as mostly about survival on Wrangel Island, but the book was too heavy to carry, at this stage of our journey. We walked a bush trail down to Safeway, to buy some drugs, books and some lunch. Spent a wonderfully interesting afternoon at the Island & Ocean Museum, where Carmen works, Gail got chatting to a volunteer, Martha, who knows the Fields well, she gave us a lot of interesting information. We saw some excellent displays as well as two movies, also some artistic work from Conrad. Checked out the “Fat Olive” restaurant for dinner but, plus good food. It was a great place for Sue to treat Gail for belated birthday dinner. We enjoyed our bottle of white Merlot too! Sue was now very tired and wilting fast and it was a long walk back to our B & B, Sue was stunned, when Gail had the cheek to ask a woman at a stop sign, for a lift back to our B & B (several km) and this woman too, went out of her way to drop us off at our door. We decided the Homer folk are very hospitable. Sue had left Gail’s T-shirt behind at the restaurant and Gail had the inspiration to call the taxi company (we had used to get to The Spit,) who collected it for us and delivered it to our B & B at no charge!!!! I doubt that would happen in a big city.
7/7 Thursday: HOMER TO ANCHORAGE
Woke early to a lot of noise from other guests at B & B. Sue raced off before breakfast to collect her laundry. Our host, Eileen, joined us for a bit of breakfast and a chat. Homer Stage van collected us a half hour late, the first part of the 5 hour journey, was not as scenic as we had hoped, and we had trouble staying awake! After our pit stop it was very picturesque indeed, reminded us of the Canadian Rockies, with the high snow covered mountains and the fast flowing, aqua marine rivers were all very beautiful. We arrived at the Anchorage Airport about 2.00pm and we were lucky to spot a Millenium Hotel shuttle bus, which took us straight there. We spent the afternoon sorting out clothing from our small overnight bags to our BIG suitcase, for our Arctic journey, as we had to leave our summer gear and gifts behind. We had thought of going to down town Anchorage for dinner but we opted out, as too tired and had a most pleasant meal in the garden courtyard of the hotel.
8/7 Friday: ANCHORAGE, ANADYR, RUSSIA & KAPITAN KHLEBNIKOV
Early morning wake up call at 5.15am as suitcases needed to be outside, at 5.45pm we departed at 7.00am for the airport. Charter flight left at 9.25am for Anaydr, Russia, We lost 3 hours and one day, en route, as we had crossed the International Date Line. The service on board the flight was fast and efficient but no much English was spoken, on the Russian Flight. We had to sit on the plane when we landed, for a good half hour, as Russian Military checked our manifest. We boarded an airport shuttle bus to go all of 10 yards, it took Sue 3 hours to clear customs and immigration, due to many delays and bureaucracy with no English spoken! It was very hot & tiring. The military made us aware not to take photos of the aircraft outside, via a slap on the wrist, with a harsh “Nyet!” Sue was in a “holding room” for a couple of hours, where she met some of the Quark staff, booking & marketing folk, and learned that Jennifer Niven, the author of “Ada Blackjack” was to be a guest speaker on board, she could not wait to tell Gail, who was already on board the K.K, wondering where Sue was! There was a lot of posturing going on, when Sue finally made it to Immigration they looked at her, flicking thru passport several times before the chap rang someone, who came and did the same act! Sue feels these bureauocrats somehow have to draw out the process, to justify their jobs Finally Sue was able to go thru Immigration and spend time chatting to an 18 year old Russian girl, who was trying to practice her English conversation. Finally Sue boarded a 20 seat, Russian Military helicopter (bench seats down the side of the aircraft) for the short flight out over the Bay to our expedition Ice Breaker Kapitan Khlebnikov, where Sue finally boarded around 1.00pm. Our cabin # 613 was very comfortable and roomy, with many cupboards and drawers, to unpack everything out of the suitcase, we had a push-out oblong window, rather than a porthole, which was a lifesaver, as we found the heating on board, much too hot for our liking.. We went straight down to lunch in the dining room on level 4, followed by life-boat & helicopter drill. Sue was in bed at 9.30pm, which was 12.30pm Anchorage time.
10/7 Sunday: NVOYE (new) CHAPLINO & PROVIDENIA
We “lost” Saturday due to time difference. It was a mild 6 degrees start to the day. After breakfast we had a 15 minute zodiac ride to Nvoye Chaplino where our Russian guide, Vladimir greeted us with a local, Siberian Yupik guide, for a walking tour of the wee town, population of 440. In 1950 the government moved them from further north and built them new houses (all the same) the foundations are on jacks, due to the permafrost, which the houses are built on.. The inhabitants live on walrus & whale meat, we saw their meat safes dug down into the permafrost, and seal skin boats and we also saw a dog sled display, which was a lot of fun. We walked through one of the houses and saw they have electricity and TV. The woman occupant of the house was thrilled to learn (thru an interpreter,) that Sue was from Australia! She gave Sue a big, bear hug and took Sue’s face in both her hands and gave her 3 kisses on each cheek! Sue took the woman outside to meet Gail, from South Africa, and Gail received the same enthusiasm and she treated us to a happy, excited jig outside her house! We then boarded heavy vehicle buses, with huge tyres for the 18 mile very rough ride, thru bleak mountainous rutted roads to Provedenia, the administrative capitol . It is a deepwater port, once long ago they had as many as 500 ships in port, as it was the gateway to the Arctic. It once had a population of 8000-10,000 now reduced to approx 2,200!. We toured the museum and had a very informative guide, Viktoiya who spoke English well. We ate a boxed lunch on the bus, as we travelled up to the lighthouse and old cemetery, for a magnificent view over the large harbour, surrounded by snow covered mountains, many an explorer has passed thru this port.. Provedenia was a bleak city in the Russian style, boxed like really, with not much colour, one was not sure if it was apartment blocks, commercial, or museum, as they all had the same architecture! We visited a general store which as fun, as had everything from one LG washing machine to underwear, sweets, groceries. Sue was amused to see frozen chickens and ice creams sharing the same freezer. We got back on the bus to return to Nvoye Chaplino to thoroughly enjoy the Yupik villagers put on a concert for us, there was great rhythm from the diaphram drums, and most dances told a story, we both thought the Raven dance was the best. It was great to see young and old, all joining in the dancing and the singing. We both were enchanted with a young girl (maybe 18 months old) in red native dress and a headscarf, though she eluded Sue’s photo opportunities, several times. They treated us to a cup of tea but we passed on the dried whale meat! Were back on board by 5.00pm and Sue’s cough had now gone her chest and she was starting to feel very unwell. Dr Dan came to the cabin to give Sue some antibiotics , and Sue retired to her bed, after a half hearted dinner. Unfortunately Sue kept Gail awake for most of the night with her coughing fits, she tried sitting up to stop the spasms
11/7 Monday YITYGRAN & YANRAKNNOT – CHUKCHI PENINSULAR
Yitygran Island, is separated from the mainland, by Senyavina Straight, often referred to, as “whalebone alley!” Yitygran is as well known archaeological site, which consists of several rows of skulls, jawbones & ribs of the Arctic bowhead whale. This site, is considered by many,to be the most grandiose religious memorial place ever built by the native people, in the Arctic area. Unfortunately, Sue took to her bed for the day, looked after by the very friendly staff, the cabin stewardess Olga, gave her some Russian sweets at the end of the day, which as very kind. Gail did the morning tour to Yitygran to see the bones and the afternoon tour to Yanraknot, where there was a display of Inuit games, which some of our group joined in afterwards. Gail reports the children dressed in the native costumes were gorgeous. They then has a zodiac ride to another part of the village, where there was a school & were shown around by the local teacher & they walked down a hill covered with wild flowers. After we went to the bridge, to spot two grey whales at a distance. There was a delightful pink, sky/sunset at 11.30pm.Sunglasses were required!
12/7 Tuesday: KOLYCHIN ISLAND
It is a small island, rising precipitously from the sea, covered in lush but potholed tundra, One of the spectacular aspects of the island, was the sea cliffs & stacks, which are nesting sites for a vast number of birds. The island was once a site used by walrus hunters and at one time, a weather station. We passed thru the Bering straight and Cape Dezhnev at midnight and the Artic Circle at 2.00am! We were woken early at 6.45 am to be told, there were grey whales off the bow, others saw Orcas later on. Weather & ice pack not suitable, for us to go ashore at Serdise-Kamen, so we started steaming towards Kolychin Island. We saw a pack of walrus on an ice floe, but the minute they heard our engines, they dived into the sea, as in the area, where they still get shot. We had just sat down for a lecture with Frank Todd,(ornithology & Marine biology) in the morning, when over the PA came the announcement that 3 polar bears, a mother & 2 cubs had been sighted on the pack ice! Everyone in the lecture theatre immediately stood as one, and ran-either to the cabin, to collect, camera, binoculars and parka, or just ran up the inside stairs onto the bridge. Sue, at first had difficulty finding the bears with her “crazy eyesight” despite very good borrowed binoculars and the assistance of all & sundry, as it was white on white!. All were getting frustrated, but finally Sue had a good look, but the bears by now, were some distance away.. After lunch at 2.00pm we resumed the lecture and arrived at Kolychin at 3.30pm, the pack ice not good for zodiacs, so we flew in via helicopter, which was very exciting and a great view. I was a fabulous setting with the green tundra the rocky outcrops, the ice blue water with the cacophony of bird calls, hundreds of birds flying around or nesting, all calling to each other, it was truly wonderful. There were kittywatts, puffins, gulls, fullmers, commerants, and we had the most fabulous sunny weather, with the sun shining on the light, bright blue sea.& ice. The cliffs & rock ledges just full of birds and it was a mild 10 degree afternoon! We were on the island for two hours had had the most spectacular helicopter ride back to the ship. We had a fun meal with Dick and Derek (grandson) Dale Woods (Quark sales) & Sasha, another Russian Guide from Vladivostok. Sue early to bed in bright, bright sunshine, as still coughing, but getting better, she had just purchased Jennifer Niven’s first book, “the Ice Master.” Gail was up on the bridge till around midnight,with sunglasses on!
13/7 Wednesday, THE LONG STRAIT at sea all day. We woke to a cool 3 degree morning, we were on our way to a late breakfast when it was announced, that two polar bears were spotted off the bow, Mother & one cub. Again, we ran for the binoculars, by the time Sue got back, they were further away than she wanted, Gail had a closer encounter off the bow and had a good long look at them. . 8.30am breakfast with Jennifer Niven and husband John Hreno, we had lots of laughs, they are a delightful couple. We attended the 9.30 lecture with Bob Headland, historian on “unveiling The Artic.” It was interesting to note that 90% of the world’s ice is in the Antarctic and 9 % is in Greenland! The remaining 1% is the rest of the globe. Sue it seems,was snoring as we steamed the North-East Passage. There was a joke against Bob Headland later, when most passengers brought a pillow to his lecture, as he accused us earlier, of falling asleep! We came prepared and he cracked up. At 11.00am, Sasha Golikov gave us a good lecture on the “Chukcki, On The Edge of Eurasia –Turkish Influence,:Follow the Reindeer” Sue had a sleep in the afternoon, missing Kit Mowat’s Art workshop, which many enjoyed. We all were absorbed in Jennifer Niven’s 5.00pm lecture “ on Wrangel Island with the doomed 1913 voyage of the Karluk” which her book, “the Ice Master” describes.. She gave a great talk and had wonderful slides. After dinner, Jennifer presented a superb documentary on the same subject.
14/7 Thursday, WRANGEL ISLAND separates the East Siberian Sea from the Chutchi Sea. The long narrow island is 125km (78 miles) long wide and occupies and area of some 7300 square km. We steamed thru the night to reach Wrangel Island, in the rain and cold, as it was one degree only, this morning, even our cabin was cold.. As the weather so lousy we took the 10 min helicopter flight onto the island, visibility was almost zilch, with the rain and Sue’s spectacles were steaming up! We had a long walk in the rain to go see the musk oxen. It was not the most joyful viewing with the steady rain not seeing thru spectacles the mush ox were gathered together in one big group we could not make out how many, nor where the heads and tails were, it was most disappointing! Yet, the assistant expedition leader, Danielle, said “it was most exciting”, the closest she had ever been to musk ox, as they are often a blob, high up on the hills and so they call them,”Musk Rock!” Sue not game to take a photo, with her new digital camera, both Sue and Gail’s spray pants got wet thru with the soaking rain,.plus we kicked up cement like mud, all over the spray paints. Needless to say, our cabin looked like a Chinese laundry afterwards, as we had scrubbed our clothes and boots and everything, was hung out to dry! .A hot cuppa was most welcome, to help thaw out. After lunch was a superb presentation and slide show from one of the Russian research scientists, who has been coming to Wrangel Island, since the early 80s. He had wonderful slides of flowers and animals, breathtaking. This was followed by a Russian documentary on Wrangel Island with Sasha translating. Frank Todd took a 5.30pm lecture on polar bears. We went back to the theatre after dinner, to watch a lousy movie “Smila’s Sense of Snow” which ended at 11.15pm
15/7 Friday, WRANGEL ISLAND
Woke to zero degrees when the alarm went at 6.30am Zodiac to the island and we decided the long hike was not for us, so joined Frank Todd, on a stroll along the beach for all of 5 minutes. Sue stopped to take photos and Gail to pick up rocks, as Frank walked on without us and we lost him and the others! We walked the long pebbled beach and climbed up the dry river- bed and saw some delightful wild flowers, at ground cover. We were climbing towards a ridge, Sue went to the side and Gail to the top, and over and she soon disappeared from Sue’s sight. Sue waited about 10 mins, with no sign of Gail, Sue had not the energy to walk up higher and now was getting very worried, as Sue could see the zodiacs coming back to fetch us all. Sue slowly made her way back down to the beach, (kept looking behind all the time to see if Gail was in sight) it took Sue 20-30 mins to get back to the zodiac and wondering how to break the news, that she had lost Gail, as well as Frank! Sue first met a Russian, who could not speak English, so was pleased when she met Wolfgang, at the zodiac and borrowed his good binoculars and was mighty relieved, to see Gail (finally,) at the bottom of rhe creek bed! Phew! How easily these things happen. We went on a most enjoyable zodiac excursion en route back to the ship, via the magnificent rocky bird cliffs, with Jennifer Clement, at the helm (logistics & naturalist), she has wonderful photos of wild flowers. There were magnificent rock formations, full of noisy, nesting birds, hundreds flying about and many happily floating on the water, until we got too close. Some gulls were on ice floes, which almost looked like penguins! There was a bit of drama getting off the zodiac, as there was some ice, that got between the ship and the zodiac!. After lunch with Jenifer Niven & John, we took a helicopter ride further inland on Wrangel to try to find snow geese, but we were not lucky. We did a tundra trek, amongst the ground cover of numerous wild flowers, which had lots of colour. . There were approx. 40 holes in the ground, not sure if wolf dens or lemmings. A very cold wind sprang up, so were very keen to get back on board ship at 4.50pm. A hot cuppa and cherry cak, was most welcome but were annoyed when we asked Frank Tod a question and he gave us a very snide retort. Sue admired Kit’s (artist in residence) paintings she had seen her sketch on Kolychin, Sue asked if they were for sale? No, but she would send Sue a copy, when she got home, to the Shetland Islands! Watched a documentary on “The Great North” beautiful Caribou and scenery, but Sue struggled to stay awake!
16/7 Saturday SOUTHBOUND – CHUKCHI SEA
Lectures were postponed this morning, as it was a delightfully clear, glorious sunny day, the ship was in the middle of the pack ice, with no land in sight. We were taken on a 10 minute helicopter flight, above & around the ship, six folk to a helicopter, so as everyone had a window. It was spectacular and will be THE memory of our trip. Cameras were a-clicking as we flew, we were so high up in the Arctic, one could see the curve of the earth, on the horizon, it was fantastic and most exhilarating. We had just sat down for a lecture with Frank, when it was announced, that two polar bears had been sighted, mother & cub. They were so close to the ship, it was our best sighting. We watched them walk away, swim, climb out of the water, truly nature at its best. Frank finally gave us his lecture on walrus, northern ice seals and whales, followed by a great BBQ lunch served on the bow, food was great and a good gluwien to drink. It was magic out on deck, with a fresh breeze & surrounded by the pack ice. After lunch Bob held his lecture on ‘how icebreakers do their work,” Sue again had trouble to stay awake!. Jennifer Niven kindly signed our books, with very nice wording before her 17.15 lecture, on “Ada Blackjack and the Wrangel Island Expedition of 1921” which was most interesting. Recap from the Expedition Team at 18.30 then had to get dressed for our “Black & White Dinner” at 17.30. Gail put a lot of imagination into her outfit, she wore black track suit, a white hand towel was her turban and her white face cloth, made into a broach. Sue however, caused a stir, wearing her white bra on the outside of her black t-short and slacks! Many a nudge from folk, to have a look at her, photos taken plus at dinner, the gentleman sitting opposite Sue, was embarrassed “and did not know where to look!” Sue won the champagne for “best dressed” shared with Rod, another Aussie, who wore his black underpants over his white corduroy slacks, white towel as his cape and black baseball cap on backwards! After dinner, we were treated to a concert in the Lecture Theatre Lynn Sommer on piano and Louise Christensen (the Dr’s wife) singing, Bob Headland did a funny sketch on an old drunken sailor, (chapter of accidents) then we all joined in on a sing- a-long with Louise. We enjoyed our hot toddy at the bar Sue, feeling badly, that Gail had to see the doctor in the afternoon, seems she has caught Sue’s virus, which she kindly gave the half the ship!
17/5 Sunday: UELEN & CAPE DEZHNEV
Woke at 6.30 to a grey, misty 7 degree morning, moored off Uelen., another Inuit village, with a population of 780. It was a wet landing, with a big swell onto the pebbled beach and it rained most of the morning, which made the town look very grey & sombre, and we felt cold. First site,, was the gold-topped, Russian Orthodox Church, rather, prayer hall, as very small and could accommodate only a few people, it was the only attractive thing in a bleak place. Many box- like buildings and looked like shipping containers for housing. Did a walking tour of the town, we saw some very cute children and some seal- skin boats. We were truly impressed with the excellent handicraft museum, which was full of superb finely detailed, walrus ivory and whale - bone carvings & ornaments, clothing, paintings, murals etc. it was wonderful, and we appreciated the pride in the craftwork. We had a tour from one of the Inuit curators. On the way out, we saw an Inuit man, doing the bone carving the modern way, with an electric blade. We then went onto the Cultural Hall for the most professional Inuit dancing we had seen. Loved the Raven dance again, they also did a weight-lifting style of dance, the courtship dance was delightful, pity the lighting was poor, for photography. We loved the cute kids playing around after the show. Gail purchased a very nice caribou scrimshaw. Gail got very wet, as she was thrown into the zodiac and fell, as a big wave came along, Sue was wet to her undies as well, Went back to the ship for a smoked salmon lunch with Lolly Bates & Mark Early, from Seattle, a lot of political discussion took place, re South Africa and USA.. Late afternoon we were off Cape Dezhnev., the most easterly point of Eurasia, Alaska was just fifty miles away! The was a keen wind and first off, it was too rough to go ashore via the zodiacs, but they re-positioned the ship, for a very rough and long ride, in the zodiacs, to the Cape and lighthouse, which was positioned up a very steep climb. Gail & Sue opted to beach comb and have a good walk, along the pebbled beach. As Sue rounded a big rock, she was exposed to very strong and forceful gale force winds, so she turned back, into the lee, as it was also very cold! It was a 20 minute, rough ride, back to the ship, as the mist was fast rolling in over the Cape. Gail followed, 40 mins. later, with pockets full of rocks. 7.20pm we were off to the Lecture Hall, to hear of tomorrow’s activities. We had a hot toddy each after dinner, then Prisca Campbell, marketing manager from Quark, bought us another! Late to bed at 12.20am!.
18/7 Monday, GETLYANIN LAGOON & PUFFIN ISLAND
The helicopter left the ship at 7.30 looking for reindeer herds. The Chuckchi people of Chukotka still maintain part of their traditional lifestyle. Indigenous people have the right to harvest whales, seals, and walrus yearly. Reindeer Herding is also still a way of life, in this part of the world. After breakfast we looked at a “Discover Antarctica with Quark” video, were interested in The Emperor Penguin colony, discovered at Snow Hill, in the Weddell Sea.. After lunch, Sue was in the front of the helicopter with the pilot., as they few the 5 miles inland, to view the 1800 domestic reindeer heard. It was very picturesque, flying through the mountains, beside a wee lake with the mountains forming a wonderful backdrop, to this multitude of reindeer, tended by just a few folk. We got very close to the reindeer herd, it was “Antler Alley” with racks of antlers, on the horizon. We looked away, as they skinned a reindeer for its’ meat. There were also many colourful wildflowers to look at, on this glorious, sunny day. Back on board about 3.30pm for tea and cake and a wee nap, before recap at 6.00pm. Gail had her request for red parkas and Sue commented on the price of $84 for a sleeveless vest!” We had an early dinner at 7,00pm, which we gobbled down, as we “had to be dressed and ready, for a zodiac excursion to Puffin Island, about one mile away. There was a wonderful wealth of birds on the rocky island, mostly puffins and gulls. The male puffins (mostly all black) had their tufted feathers on their head. The females were black with white chests, and no tufts, very hard to photograph from a rocking zodiac. It was a wonderful outing in the dusk light, we were out for well over an hour and Peter Clements, drove us back to the ship around 9.15pm. We were in the bar 20 minutes later, for Sue to share her bottle of champagne with Prisca & Lynn. We gave “feedback” to Prisca, on the odd niggles we had with Quark, which she took on-board. Prisca had heard most of the same “beefs” from others on board. Late to bed again at 12.30am
19/7 Tuesday, GILMYMYL BAY, HOT SPRINGS
Woke to a beautiful sunny morning and at 9.00am, we boarded the helicopter at 9.00am for the 1km flight inland to the hot springs, We had to hike up a wee hill, to the river and the hot springs, part of river was very hot, the other cold, and it was not static. Sue decided against a dip, as there was a keen breeze (and she is still not fully fit) and there was only a pup tent to change. It was a beautiful spot, with a rocky ridge down to the swift flowing river, high mountains surrounds, with the odd bit of snow and the sun shining, with the blue, blue sky. It was a long 4 km hike up hill and down dale to get, back to the zodiacs, with superb scenery and numerus wild flowers, almost seventh heaven, as so scenic. There was a lovely pebbled beach and it was a great zodiac ride back to the ship, with Jenny, we stopped at the stern to take photos of the hammer & sickle decal, then off to lunch with Edith & Elaine.. 3.00pm Final Recap& embarkation brief, there was a wonderful photo collage of our trip, lovely photos of flowers and folk. We then had to collect our passports, pay bills etc., We attended the Captain’s cocktail party at 6.30pm followed by a Russian meal which was just OK helped by the glass of Vodka served. The dessert was Bombe Alaska , the lights were turned off in the dining room, as the Russian staff paraded around the room, dressed in their colourful, traditional regional costumes and the Bombe Alaska were all lit by sparklers. , there was a well deserved round of applause. This was followed by a super concert from the crew, with Grigory, 2nd Chief Officer, on guitar, singing along with the girls in their very colourful dresses, our cabin stewardess, Olga, was amongst them, They sang many well known Russian songs, but the hit of the night, was Grigory, singing a song, about our trip, to the tune of “Yellow Submarine!” We all joined in on the chorus. We tried to pack our bags before midnight but, in the midst, Lynn Sommers suggested we join her at the bar! Bob Headland had consumed a few drinks and was tipsy, he was all over us, as we left the bar! We finally got to bed at 1.00am!
20/7 Wednesday; ANADYR, SIBERIA TO ANCHORAGE, ALASKA
We were woken at 5.45am for breakfast at 7.15am and our luggage was still in the hallway! We sat in the library, filling in questionnaire, till we were finally called to disembark at 9.20am. Sue was last to board the 22 seat, Russian Military helicopter, and had trouble finding a seat, she has to squeeze in! To our surprise all went smoothly to get thru customs & immigration, all done within an hour. We laughed ourselves silly over “breakfast” on the plane, as it was a thick slice of bread, a tin of mackerel, cheese, and a chocolate marshmallow cookie, plus a dark chocolate bar. It was a two hours flight, back to Anchorage and had to put the clock back 3 hours. Walked around the area of the Millenium Hotel looking for gifts, found a fabulous map of Alaska, on a window of a shop, that was not open. As we were short on sleep, we elected not to go downtown for dinner and took the $16 voucher (for breakfast the next day) and used it for a nice dinner, in the coffee shop of hotel, at 7.30pm. Dunegesse King Crab legs, crumbed calamari steak, 2 x chicken for mains and enjoyed the vanilla bean ice cream, with raspberry sauce. Said fond farewells to Jennifer & John, Linda & Pauline, Maureen & Anne from the UK & Dal, who were all dining together. We then had to pack our overnight bags for trip to Barrow and leave our big luggage in the hotel storeroom. Bed 12.30am and were up at 4.30am!
20/7 Wednesday: ANCHORAGE TO BARROW
Departed hotel 5.20am for 6.30am flight to Barrow, right at the top of Alaska, (nearest Point in USA to North Pole,) where a very nice customer service woman helped us to check-in, our electronic plane ticket, as it is all self-service! We really have very scant details for our trip. When we went through security the alarm went off and we had to vacate the building!. It was a magnificent 45 minute flight, to Fairbanks. The pilot went out of his way to show us superb snow covered, Mt McKinley, at Denali National Park, .it was so picturesque. We were only given fruit juice to drink, on the way to Fairbanks when we were feeling peckish. We only had half an hour on the ground and the pilot came to have a chat, thanks to the hostesses, we were able to personally thank him for his sight seeing tour. Captain Steve Rhodes had gone out of his way as it was such a glorious day. It was only an hour and a quarter flight to Barrow, landing at 9.20am. “ Tundra and Top of the World Tours” was there to greet us in a white bus, Inuit Joe, was our tour guide. We were amazed that it was to be an all day tour of Barrow. Barrow very bleak, not much colour. Dirt roads and not much grass, in fact, very similar to the bleak Siberian villages, we saw on our expedition. A woman from New Jersey on our bus, was shocked that this was the USA!. The visitor’s centre was the remains of a sod house (up and under ground) with an ice room buried at a level of 15’ underground. Lucy, a schoolteacher, was very informative. We saw the town hall, recreation centre, school, population 4,500, The high school was built, less than ten years ago, for 300 students. Lunch at Pepes a Mexican restaurant, hamburger and blueberry pie! There was a book written about the life of the owner, “Taco on the Tundra”. She was 76 years old, wearing green short dress, long flowing hair, she reminded Sue of her Auntie Nelda!. She’s the” Mama Bear” of the “Polar Swim Club. She had to witness those on our trip, who went for a dunk, they had to be in up to their armpits, to gain the certificate. Our room in the hotel was much better than we first thought, as it looked like a shipping container from the front. Our room overlooked the Arctic Ocean. It was very hot despite the air-conditioning, as the sun was still streaming in the window at 1.00 am! After lunch we were taken to the Arctic Inuit Cultural and Heritage Centre, for more dancing and some Inuit games, as well as an exclusive demonstration of blanket tossing. Joe, the guide, took us on a tour of the whaling section. There were lovely exhibits of whale baleen, scrimshaw artefacts. We saw a woman in the process of polishing and explaining, how it was all done. It was a most interesting experience. We then set out for Point Barrow, the most northerly point of USA. to the North Pole, approximately 550 miles. We went back to the hotel at 6.15 for a cup of coffee. At 8pm we walked for about 10 minutes to the Arctic Pizza Restaurant. After we strolled around Barrow.
21/7 Thursday, BARROW - ANCHORAGE
Woke 6.30am, Sue went next door to Pepes’ for a very nice brekkie. We left 8.45am for a short ride to the airport. New hostesses on flight were all very friendly and Captain Steve Rhodes had told them all about us! Capt Steve over the intercom, announced they had X amount of passengers, one infant, one lady from Australia and one from South Africa!. Capt Steve wanted to repeat the sightseeing tour of Mt McKinley, at Sue’s request, but unable to do so (as a “no- go” zone), due to military exercises the day after the London bombings.. The Millenium Hotel courtesy bus collected us, took our luggage out of the storage room and we took the 2pm shuttle downtown, then a taxi to our B and B, the Inlet Lodge. It was very hard to get our heavy luggage up the stairs. We were shocked to learn of the London bombings, from our hostess. 3.30pm we walked downtown, which took about half an hour. We fell in love with wonderful flower displays in gardens, pots and off lampposts. Big shopping spree in two different shops for gifts for us for others. Sue treated herself to a soapstone otter. Gail had nothing to eat since the cinnamon bun, on our flight, so 5.45pm we went to a deli and sat down, for a huge turkey sandwich which we shared. The sandwich was about ¾ inch thick. More shopping, then checked out “Humpies” for dinner, but was too crowded and noise unbearable, so ended up at Phyllis’ Café for seafood chowder, a pound of king crab legs, corn on the cob, potato salad followed by a big ice cream cone. About 10.00pm we were heading towards the Tony Knowles coastal walk, but a policeman advised, we really shouldn’t. “Many hobos and campers!”. So we did our usual walk back, to the B and B.
22/7 Friday, ANCHORAGE – SEATTLE – BELLINGHAM – MISSION
Alarm set for 5.50am so we could go on a walk along part of the coastal trail looking for moose, without success. Did see ducks. Our B and B has seen many moose, in their yard. There was a beautiful lake, with lots of ducks swimming in single file. Quick breakfast before the taxi collected us to take us to the airport, which took the last of our US dollars. Flight was full and Gail and I were not sitting together, for the flight to Seattle. We landed in Seattle with 55 minutes to be on our flight to Bellingham, running through the terminal for our domestic flight. Luckily, a courtesy van collected us. Arrived at the checkout counter, to discover our flight was over-booked and we weren’t on it! . Sue explained the urgency of our flight and an announcement was made on the PA, to see if fellow passengers on our flight, would like to delay their flight and if so, were compensated with a ticket for a free flight to anywhere in USA or Mexico! Gail got chatting to a very interesting lay Joan. Joan, who wanted to know all about us! . We were lucky enough to get on board. It was a very scenic flight over the San Juan Strait. Landed on time at 3pm. Ken was there to meet us. He thought our hand luggage was all that we had!. Boy, was he in for a shock! After collecting our luggage it was a very pretty and rural drive to the border, where we had to get our passports stamped. Wanda was outside hosing down her new red beautiful Mazda 3 car. We had gin and tonics on the deck, overlooking the Fraser River, while Ken cooked us some tasty and tender kebabs, for dinner. We were very tired. Sue slept up in the attic and Gail was down in the basement.
23/7 Saturday, MISSION, BC
Sue had a restless night, as hot and cold, up in the attic, so not well rested. We faffed a bit this morning, as Wanda started on our heavy wash load. Left to go to Mission, to get Sue’s glasses adjusted as she’d sat on them. We headed for Harrison Hot Springs through lovely countryside, but too hazy for photography. We visited lots of curio shops, before we had a tasty vegetable and chicken soup, plus turkey sandwich for lunch. Then visited the wonderful sand sculptures, based on a theme of nursery rhymes. They were beautifully crafted and to think they’re still wonderfully preserved, given they’d been built in May. Wanda bought us each, a jade bear with a fish in its mouth. On the way back, we stopped at the cascades waterfall, which was picturesque. Back after 6pm, Ken had cooked us a barbeque salmon steak and salad, white wine, plus angel food cake. We then sat down to look at Sue photographs on the TV. There were some good ones, but a few out of focus. A lot of fun as Sue was instructed which ones to delete. We got to bed after midnight.
24/7 Sunday, MISSION
We left at 9.30 to off for a farmhouse breakfast, only to discover the farmhouse closed!. All disappointed. Headed to Abbotsford for our breakfast. We drove to Clayburn, a few kilometres away, an historical small village, built by the owners of the brick-pits, 100 years ago. We went for a free walking tour. We really enjoyed the sweets from ”all over the world “in the General Store. It was an extremely hot day. Dropped Ken home about 1.30. We three women went out to shop at the drug stores. Went home with Tim Horton’s iced cappuccinos, which Sinbad, was hanging out for, plus Tim Bits of donuts. Sent some emails, sorted out luggage. We had a tasty lasagne and salad, for dinner. Left at 8.40pm to go to the lookout at Westminster Abbey and there was a beautiful sunset, featuring a snow covered Mt Baker (white snow, wonderful pink sky sunset)
25/7 Monday, MISSION – VANCOUVER
It was a very hot morning. Left at 11.30 to meet Denyne at Starbucks, at Langley, next to the bookshop, which waylaid Gail. Said our farewells to Wanda and Ken after coffee and sandwich and then went into Chapters Bookshop, to buy the book on “Ada Blackjack” as only hard cover on sale, on board KK Denyne drove us home via the scenic route, the Fraser River, as Carlie was keen to see us. We had cool drinks in the back garden, then off to the bookshop, to buy Sue the “Ada Blackjack” book, as the other store only had one. Back home to chat and look at C and Ds photos of their trip, to Australia. Gail went to dinner with her cousin, Michelle and her new husband Davor. Sue embarrassed that Carlie had to drive her back, to Langley again, to meet Ken and Wanda, as we had inadvertently left our cameras in Ken’s van, in our haste. The best part of the drive to Langley, was when we saw hot air balloons flying, with the backdrop of the snow covered Mt Baker. It was truly lovely. 11.50 bed after packing for Vancouver Island.
26/7 Tuesday, VANCOUVER TO TOFIN0 on VANCOUVER ISLAND
We had a restless night with the heat and departed at 6.40am to be at Tsawwassen ferry, by 7.10am - had time to buy a cup of coffee & a muffin, but Sue was embarrassed, as she managed to spill the coffee, she had on the floor, as the car boarded the ferry, so a major clean- up took place, as Carlie washed the rugs and mats, from the car, on board the ferry during the two-hour ride, from Tasawwassen to Nanaimo, Sue had a delicious. bacon, egg & cheese roll for breakfast on board. We arrived at 10.00am and had a nice drive to Coombes, a wee village, that has goats feeding on grass roofs, but unfortunately, we saw none. There was a great deli-type shop front and produce market, bought the biggest 2 scoop ice- cream we have ever seen. There was an elderly busker, playing a fiddle and another guy at the back, on guitar, drums plus didgeridoo!. He was very good and of course, we had to listen. Gail bought his CD. Couldn’t find a bank in Port Alberny as we both needed cash. Carlie had hoped to swim in some rock-pools, en route, but the water was very cold. Stopped at Ucuelet in midafternoon, before checking into Long Beach Resort, a beautiful hotel, right on the beach. We had great room, one huge king size bed, two armchairs, dressing table, wardrobes and great bathroom, with louvred blinds, between bath and bedroom. One could soak in the bath and watch TV at the same time! We had a wee rest before going down to dinner,in the dining room for a superb three course meal. Sue watched a dud of a movie called “Wimbledon”. She had difficulty getting the VCR to work and had to call reception. Headed to bed some time after midnight it was another hot night.
27/7 Wednesday, LONG BEACH RESORT, VANCOUVER ISLAND
Up at 6am for a delightful walk along Long Beach before breakfast. Drove to Torfino for a look around and retail therapy. We booked a whale watching tour for the next day. Visited the Roy Henry Vickers gallery, an indigenous local artist. Gail and Sue both bought prints in lovely, vibrant colours. We almost went bear watching but only had 5 minutes before the tour left. Visited the local handmade chocolate factory. Consumed another huge ice-cream, then had a look at Wickaninnish Inn, the top resort in the world, which is part of the Chateau Leraisse. We then went to Wickaninnish centre to the walk the beach. Annoyed that we waited for an hour after ordering our late lunch, at 2pm. We had a short walk along the beach, before we saw the 4pm 20minute movie, on sea otters, they are so cute. We cancelled our dinner reservation at the restaurant, as food and service lousy. Gail and I spent a half hour in the interpretative centre, then back to the Long Beach Resort for a nap. We had a super and fun meal, at 8pm in the dining room and the waitress added to the fun. Meal topped off with an Irish Coffee- type drink, and we sent the first ones back, as they were lukewarm. Topped a wonderful day and went straight to bed (at 11.30) and slept well.
28/7 Thursday, VANCOUVER ISLAND – RICHMOND
Feeling refreshed, awake at 6.30, packed up before a delicious breakfast at 8am. We left 9.20am for our whale watching tour, in zodiacs. Had to put on a red, full bodied survival suit, plus a rain jacket, on top of that, about 12 on board and we departed in a very heavy mist, very grey and cold morning. Really rough seas, very high waves and was a love/hate relationship, for Sue. The girl skipper skimmed over the waves and one came down the other side with a really back- breaking thud! Five of the group were throwing up! It was very cold out there, despite our wet weather gear, and we all got wet through to our underwear. The fog and mist cleared and turned into a sunny day. Some did see one mother humpback and her calf, Sue only saw the spray from the blow. It was a waste of 2 ½ hours. We all had to strip off afterwards in the car park, as we were so wet. We headed to Port Alberni for lunch. Just made it to Duke Point at 5pm for the 6.00pm ferry. We headed straight to the dining room for dinner, as we’d only had a snack for lunch. Arrived back Imperial Arms at 8.40pm. Gail’s cousin; Jonothan, phoned, to say we had to catch a train to San Jose and someone would meet us there.
29/7 Friday, WHISTLER via SEA TO SKY HIGHWAY
Feeling refreshed we left 9.20am for Whistler. It was a beautiful and very picturesque drive on the aptly named, “Sea the Sky Highway,” hugging the bay side, through northwest Vancouver, Horseshoe Bay. We stopped to look at Shannon Falls, very pretty but were told there’s usually more water than we saw. Whistler was far prettier and bigger, than either of us thought. There were lots of shops and eateries, coffee shops, etc. It was a beautiful sunny day, but the clouds were rolling in. We decided to head for the Peak Chairlift after a quick bite to eat. We left Denyne at the bottom as she des not like heights. We went from 2140’ to 7000’ in two chairlifts, with magnificent views along the way. The first chairlift was enclosed and full of mountain bikers and their bikes and we watched them hooning down the mountain, at great speed, as we rode up. Supposedly, good bear spotting country, but we didn’t see any. We walked around the first stage, to see all the snow on the ground, Canadian flags and magnificent views before a short walk down a pebbled pathway, to an open ski chairlift, for the ascent to the peak, for truly awesome views, it was cold at the top at 7,160’. There was a sign at the peak chairlift which said ”urgent notice - have fun”. We were very exposed on the chairlift, but fortunately, we had warm jackets. Certainly had cold knees and hands. The panoramic views of the snow-covered, mountains were breathtaking. At the peak, was a stone henge- type structure, which is the logo for the 2010 Olympics called, Inukshuk (Image of Man). Sue was click-happy with her camera, with the spectacular views, as the grey clouds rolled in. We were reluctant to leave the peak, but at the same time, amused to see a sniffer station at the chairlift, where they provide tissues. Met Denyne at the bottom where it was now hot, for a cup of coffee and then Sue and Gail did some tourist shopping. We were surprised to learn that Carlie had booked the Rimrock Café, for dinner at 7pm. The food was divine. It was THE meal of the trip. Sue and Gail shared a 6 plate starter, which was mouth watering: prawns, oysters, ceviche, raw tuna, marinaded fish. Truly lip-smacking. Mains were also very delish. Left 9.30 and got back to Richmond 2 hours later, tired, but on a high, after a great day.
30/7 Saturday, VANCOUVER
We went to the shops to check out barbeque fish grills for Gail and then spent a good half hour at the drugstore, wanting to sort out our 184 photos, but it was far too costly to process. Sue and Gail started packing. Left 4pm for a 5pm movie “March of the Penguins” on the Emperor penguins in Antarctica.
Exquisite photography. We then dropped off our beach chairs, at Kitsilano Beach, as all roads would be blocked off, due to the fireworks display. 7pm buffet dinner at the Pacific Culinary School, where we had our fill of delicious smoked salmon. We walked the coast trail for 20 minutes back to the beach chairs, at Kitsilano Beach. We were amazed that the chairs were still there untouched!. So many people crowded on the foreshores for the 10pm fireworks. There was a 25 minute display, put on by Sweden, all set to music. It was superb, with the crowd oohing and aahing. It was a slow, crowded walk, with the multitude, back to the Culinary School and the car. We were back to Richmond by 11.30.
31/7 Sunday, VANCOUVER –AMTRAK TRAIN
Up at 4.10am after 4 hours sleep!. Denyne and Carlie drove us to Vancouver Train Station, to board a Thruway bus, to Seattle at 5.45am. It was a tearful farewell to D and C as they truly spoilt us. We were shocked to learn that the bus made a scheduled stop, at a hotel near Richmond Airport!. This was about 6.10am. Collected more people in Richmond and Surrey just before the border. It took a ½ hour for the whole bus to be processed, thru Customs, as we had to take all our luggage with us. Arrived at Seattle Railway Station at 9am after dozing most of the way. It was a rush to get onto the train within the hour, as there were only two people on the counter, to issue tickets. We had to collect our ticket for San Jose and then had to check in our luggage as they closed the doors behind us! Both Sue’s and Gail’s luggage was overweight (Sue’s was 58.6kg.) We had to hastily pack our books and such, from our big suitcases, into a cardboard box, with Railway staff hurrying us up the whole time, which was stressing. We complained about the lack of staff on the ticket counter and we were delighted to see our luggage being loaded onto the train, as we just made it on time, for the 10am departure. We had the tiniest postage stamp sized roomette, thank goodness, our luggage had been checked in!. No room to swing a cat, we only had our backpacks. We were fortunate to be upstairs near the parlour car, with the armchairs, with the picture windows. After Tecoma we travelled along the water’s edge along Puget Sound, for a good half hour or so, it was very picturesque. Had a very good view of the snow covered Mt Ranier. We missed the first sitting for lunch and it wasn’t worth waiting for. Worse than airline food! Late afternoon, we ascended the Cascade Mountains. Glorious scenery. Pine covered mountains, valleys, lakes, and had superb views over sunlit coloured rocks. Dinner was at 8pm with magnificent pink clouds and sunset. Train delayed at Klaymath Falls at 11.30pm. We got out and walked the platform. The cabin steward made up the bunks. Sue asked how she was going to get onto the top bunk. The cabin steward looked at her grey hair and offered her the bottom bunk, in his cabin! He slept further down the train It was hard to sleep with the rocking of the train, worse than the ship and it was hot in the cabin.
1/8 Monday, AMTRAK TRAIN PALO ALTO
At breakfast we heard we were 3 hours behind schedule, due to a freight train in front, that had broken down. It seems the freight company owns the track which Amtrak lease and freight trains take priority over passenger trains. It took forever to get to Sacramento and a lot of confusion about passengers going onto LA. We got talking to a passenger, Judy, who was crocheting the whole trip, with the longest finger nails we have ever seen, they were the result of 29 years worth of growth!. Judy thought we were sisters. She kindly gave us the use of her cell phone, so we could keep Gail’s cousin up to date with our delays. It was so frustrating. You’d pull up at a station and depart only to pull up shortly after, for another delay. Passengers were getting more upset by the minute. There was some wine tasting to keep us amused. We were just 15 minutes from San Jose when we stopped again for another frustrating time. Poor Rachael, had been waiting at the station from 2pm and we didn’t arrive till 4.40 pm, about 7 hours late! It was a twenty-minute ride, to Jonny and Renee Dorfin’s house, at Palo Alto. Jonny gave us a warm welcome when he came home at 6pm. We both had a hot soak in the bath.. En route to San Jose, we saw the mothball fleet of a huge number of naval vessels in retirement. After supper, we retired to bed at 10pm in the spacious guest cottage, out the back, as two English backpackers also arrived, to stay for six days
2/8 Tuesday PALO ALTO – SAN FRANCISCO
It took us a while to get organised this morning, confirming flights and such. Caught the 9.37 train towards San Francisco, getting off at Millbrae, to catch a BART (Bay Area Rapid Transport) to the heart of SF Union Square. We left Palo Alto in beautiful sunny weather, then on the BART train, we went through the tunnel and emerged into the enveloping fog. We went straight to the Visitor’s Centre to get info on one day trips, plus, buy an all day municipal transport pass for $9 each. Sue was annoyed they would not give her change for a $100 bill., we had to go to a bank and come back. Then on to the Ritz camera shop for Sue to check her photos were still in the camera, as she’d been playing with it on the train and they’d disappeared! She was mighty relieved to learn they were still there and they were burnt onto a CD for US$5.99 as opposed to Can$36 they were quoted in Vancouver. We walked to lovely Union Square, surrounded by some magnificent old buildings/architecture plus, some very upmarket shops, such as Saks on Fifth Avenue, Tiffany’s. We walked through the entrance of Niemann and Marcus, with a superb glass ceiling of a ship, but couldn’t afford more than to look. We went to a great cookery shop, called Williams and Sanoma. We also checked out the cookbook section in Macy’s .We managed to walk past numerous shoe shops and the purchase of the day, was to buy 2 luggage locks that are good for the USA. Caught the cable car from Union Square to Fisherman’s Wharf, which was jam-packed, with so many people hanging off it. We found Fisherman’s Wharf rather tacky – a multitude of cheap souvenir shops. We could not see out of the cable car for all the people around us. Sue had forgotten that the cable cars go over many of the 40 odd hills in San Francisco. We ate a good clam chowder standing up, at a counter and then bought a bucket of prawns, with dipping sauce, and we ate them on the Wharf overlooking the trawlers, returning in a howling strong wind. We booked a tour to Muir Woods and Sausalito, for the nest day, as we got weary of walking and took the “F train to Castro (gay and lesbian section of SF) which, took about an hour, with peak hour traffic. Castro’s buildings are the ones we often see in movies and so on. One in particular, was a lovely old-fashioned Victorian apartment. Castro Theatre had a wonderful old-fashioned façade. We walked into a organic/wholesome food shop and laughed out loud, when we found a jar of “horny goat weed” on the vitamin shelf. We were searching for a cheap, good restaurant to eat in and settled on a good, Thai restaurant opposite the Castro Theatre. The food was excellent. Hurried to get a train down to the Caltrain, for the 9.50 train back to Palo Alto. There was a huge queue to get on the train, as the baseball game had just finished nearby. Sue got a bit disoriented back at Palo Alto, getting back to Bryant Ave at 11.30pm.
3/8 Wednesday PALO ALTO – MUIR WOODS – SAUSALITO
Jonny and Renee were surprised to see us up so early, as we had wanted to ask them a few things like, cost of taxis to the airport, etc. Caught the 9.37 train for the one hour, journey downtown. We made a mistake purchasing our ticket, out of the automatic machine, then caught the NORT train to the ferry terminal, at the Embarcardero, a delightful old building with a huge tall clock-tower, built in the late 1800s. Found a “Sur La Table” shop, for Gail to buy a grill to barbeque a whole fish in, which we had been looking for, since we arrived in North America.. We caught the “F train to Wharf 43A to pay for our tour, before a quick look and shop, at the Barnes and Noble bookstore. We were given a free trial of an Iced Frappicino, which was refreshing. Sue was lucky to get Gail out of it in time, for a fish and chip lunch, on the Wharf. Our 2.15pm tour commenced to Muir Woods, with a very vocal Portuguese driver/guide. For $40 each, we saw many parts of SF we might not have seen on our own. We saw Aquatic Park, Maritime Museum, with the lovely tall National Liberty Ship, the “SS Jeremiah O’Brien”, the marina district, Fort Mason Centre past the Palace of Fine Arts with its Greco-Roman structure, which was built in 1915, for the Exposition. Also saw Chestnut Street on which the movie “Bullitt” was filmed. Also saw the Presidio (Naval Base) and a grand view of the Golden Gate Bridge, but no photo stop. After we crossed the bridge there was a superb view of Sausalito, but again, no stopping for photos. We had a one hour 15 minute stop, at Muir Woods/Mount Tamalpas 15 miles north of San Francisco. It was truly wonderful with its’ 550 acres preserve and with a grove of old growth redwoods/sequoias. It was truly magical with the sun streaming through them. It was extremely picturesque and so serene. There were lots of hiking trails. Enroute to Sausalito, was a slow mountainous, curving road, where there was a stand of Aussie eucalypts, brought in after the hills were denuded of trees, during the gold rush. Sausalito is very picturesque, with a supposed great view across San Francisco and the Bridge, but the fog was in!. We had a 40 minute, stop there and the opportunity to buy another huge ice-cream. Expensive at $12 for the two! Drove back through Chinatown, dropping people off enroute, at various hotels. Had a fantastic view of very tall pyramid style building, Coite Tower/ Trans Pacific American sitting high on top of a hill. We were supposed to be dropped off at Union Square, however, the driver, kindly drove us all the way back to the Caltrain station, through peak hour traffic. We just made it onto the 6.50pm train, otherwise we’d have had to wait another hour. We were back at J and R’s for a salad and bagel supper. Sue started the chore of packing, then had an hour break to watch Gail’s family video, of Cecilia’s 90th birthday celebrations in Israel, back in September 2001. There were also some old movies of the kids growing up, which was fun to see the elegant dressing of the women in their hats, during the forties. Gail appeared as a child several times, but Sue only got a glimpse, as too tired and had to finish her packing, have a bath. and got to bed eventually, just after midnight.
4/8-5/8 Thursday/Friday SAN FRANCISCO – HONOLULU – SYDNEY
Sue had less than 5 hours sleep as on “red alert!”. Got up in the dark at just after 5,00am trying not to disturb Gail. Managed to put T-shirt on, inside-out, which she only discovered in Honolulu, when she took her sweatshirt off! Sue’s limousine, to take her the airport was already outside at 5.50am and Gail helped her with all her luggage. The English boys were also up, as they were off to Yosemite for a night. It was extremely hard to say goodbye. Sue got the driver to go to the international airport, only to realise Honolulu is a domestic flight She tried to get a juice or some yoghurt, but the queues were far too long. It was very confusing to find where to check in, but was glad to have all her luggage checked through to Sydney. The big suitcase weighed over 53 pounds and her overnight bag was also heavy. There was only one water fountain in the airport, which was out of order. So it was a very thirsty wait for loading. Finally boarded at 8am for the 8.40 take off, for a 4 hour 40minute flight, to Honolulu, on very full plane. Finally got a drink at 9.30am and lunch at 10.30. She was feeling very lethargic without food. The chocolate fudge cookie was delish. Sue was very annoyed that there were no instructions given, for ongoing passengers to Sydney, on the plane. She wandered around Honolulu airport, asking several Hawaiian Airline staff, before she got the correct answer as to where to go. Luckily the luggage was already checked through. We landed at 10.45 am, local time, in Hawaii (1.45 SF time) and it was really very warm. Did not have to go through immigration. It was all done at the check-in counter. We took off at 12.30 (3.30 SF time). Sue busied herself reading the SF brochures to get a grip on what they’d seen and done. She felt we did well in our 2 days there. San Francisco is a lovely city and full of character and would love to go back. Did not get a drink till 4.30pm SF time, a whole can of tomato juice. 5.30pm lunch. Dozed for approximately 3 hours. Plane was not full and thrilled to have an empty seat beside me.
So ends another fantastic holiday. Wonder where the next will be?
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