5/3/2009
LAUTOKA, FIJI
A hot and sunny morning in the city of Lautoka was spent visiting Viseisei Village, the home village of the High Chief and the main village of the province.
Lunch was taken at the First Landing Resort said to be the site of the Fijian peoples first arrival. After experiencing Fijian hospitality we went on to visit the Mountain of the Sleeping Giant. Named so after the geographical formation that leads visitors to believe that it is indeed the shape of a great reclining or sleeping giant. A visit to the orchid farm at the base of this mountain left orchid growers and admirers alike envious of the varieties and size of the locally grown blooms.
6/3//2009
WAYA ISLAND, YASAWA GROUP, FIJI
A leisurely breakfast preceded an exciting cultural emersion at Naboro Village where we were gifted colourful Sulus (Sarongs) by the local village dignitaries as a symbol of welcome and as a culturally appropriate dress to enter the village.
A traditional Kava ceremony was enacted to introduce us to the protocols of village life. Many of us tasted the muddy water and announced our thanks with a call of ‘Bula’ and clapped hands at the conclusion of each tasting.
The Naboro village children entertained us with traditional and folksongs at the local school. Beaming young faces and strong voices enchanted us as they launched enthusiastically into their well-loved and rehearsed songs.
A short zodiac ride from Naboro Village and we arrived at Sunset Waya Resort. A place of stereotypical South Pacific paradise beauty – clear blue waters, white beaches, palm trees and friendly locals singing our welcome as our zodiacs approached the beach. After a tasty morning tea and some very entertaining dancing by the local young men it was snorkelling off the front beach or anchored zodiac sites for views of the most amazing coral reef life or weaving classes and Kava ceremonies accompanied by local singers.
Lunch was taken back on the Odyssey followed by an afternoon at sea. We enjoyed a lecture presentation by Shirley Campbell ‘A Colonization of the Pacific: Polynesian Voyagers’. Captains Welcome Cocktails and Dinner concluded a perfect first day of our Voyage to Melanesia
7/3/2009
AT SEA
A warm sunny day and gentle seas filled our day at sea heading toward Ambrym Island, Vanuatu.
A morning lecture by Charley Wheatley on ‘Coral Reefs: Oases in the Sea’ set the tone for a day of educational talks followed by Shirley Campbell ‘Melanesian Cultural Beginnings’. Our afternoon lecture from John Lenanton ‘Tropical Forests’ concluded a great day of sun, good food and informative lectures.
8/3/2009
AMBRYM ISLAND, VANUATU
Volcanic smoke filled the air and added to the mystique of Ambrym Island as the Odyssey anchored off Ranon Village this morning. We all enjoyed Pepper Trail’s lecture ‘There Are No Moa: Avian Radiations and Extinctions in the Pacific’ before disembarking for the mornings activities.
Two groups set off, one to the shore to investigate bird and plant life and the volcanic coastline. The second group headed out to snorkel a unique site that featured new coral growth on a bed of black sand. Some were treated with a sighting of a large turtle that seemed very curious at our presence.
The afternoon was spent at Ranon Village where the spectacular Rom Dance was performed to the beat of the Tam Tam drums. Sand drawings and stories were shared and the craft markets buzzed with many shopping for carvings, flutes and magic stones. The Ranon Village string band kept up a cheery beat while we strolled the beach taking in the beauty of Ranon’s lush vegetation and the work of master carvers scattered along the shore line.
The day concluded with a delicious BBQ dinner on the pool deck with music provided by our guests, the Ranon Village String Band.
9/3/2009
LUGANVILLE, ESPIRITU SANTO ISLAND, VANUATU
The Odyssey docked at Luganville to be met with a warm welcome from the local string band. Our adventure for the morning was a tour of Luganville township then off over rough crushed coral roads which led us deep into the thick vegetation to view the original World War II airstrip.
Back through the township we stopped at the local produce markets. Many strange and wondrous foodstuffs were discovered. Bound crabs with claws waving, tail flipping lobsters enormous bananas and many of our favourite tropical fruits were spread out in ordered fashion in the open-air markets.
We made a late morning visit to Lewanton Kastom Village. Its members, originally from the Banks Islands, Torba Province, the most northerly Vanuatu province, provided a cultural display to remember. This energetic group performed from the moment of our arrival, sounding a warning to the villagers of our arrival by blowing the conch shell and dashing out of the thick undergrowth to determine our intent. Being ushered into the village by the young warriors we were treated to Banks Island traditional dances that included a performance by the women and children.
The afternoon was spent snorkelling off Million Dollar Point inspecting the debris of World War II military occupation that has now become a home for tropical fish and coral growth. This was a truly wonderful day filled with local culture and WWII historical sites.
10/3/2009
AT SEA
A ‘made-to-order’ clear warm day at sea provided us the opportunity to relax and enjoy the pool, brunch, lectures and a couple of unexpected treats.
Shirley was first up with her lecture titled ‘Melanesia: A Cultural Heritage’ followed by a delicious brunch. Charley was scheduled to deliver his lecture ‘A Fishwatcher’s Guide to Coral Reef Fish’, when a call came from the Bridge that whales had been spotted off the starboard side. Two magnificent Bryde’s whales delighted us with their spouts while they fed along with many sea birds including Red Footed Boobies, Skewers and Turns. A big thanks to Captain Peter, Thomas, Charley, Tony and Pepper for keeping us informed on the bird and marine life we were seeing.
A wonderful afternoon was had on the pool deck with an ‘Ice Cream Social, a delicious variety of home made ice creams followed by Pepper’s lecture, ‘Boobies and Beyond: Seabirds of the South Pacific’.
A perfect day at sea concluded with a rich coloured sunset and a rising full moon.
11/3/2009
SANTA ANA, SOLOMON ISLANDS
Dolphins tracked the Odyssey’s approach to Santa Ana Island this morning. Turquoise blue water and white sands framed a warrior welcome to the Ghupuna Village. Escorted through the village we were led to an open area to watch the official welcome of a panpipe band and dancers. One of many highlights was the dramatic story of the Mud Men. These red mud covered characters symbolised the disruptive intervention of white outsiders into traditional life. The Mud Men were intent on disrupting the traditional daily lives of the village women. As they circled the female dancers they were confronted by the arrival of a group of black painted warriors who warded off the intruders and chased them into the surrounding forest leaving the women to complete their dance uninterrupted. It was an astounding performance by the local villagers.
We then split into three groups one walking a four-mile round trip to Nataghere Village to visit the Spirit House. The second group led by Pepper and John headed into the forest for a nature walk and the third group stayed in Ghupuna Village and visited the local craft markets and played with the children on the beach. Games of 5 Stones, shell hunting and Natalia’s underwater kids photography kept everyone, including large groups of locals and children, laughing and having a fun time on the beach.
The afternoon was filled with snorkelling and diving, educating us on the perils of over fishing and introduced species into fragile marine environments.
A full moon created a great evening atmosphere to finish off the day with a dinner option of local lobster.
12/3/2009
FLORIDA ISLANDS, SOLOMN ISLANDS
Another colourful cultural welcome awaited us on the shore of the township of Tulagi established as the capital of the Solomon Islands in 1897.
Today World War II was at the forefront of every ones minds. John Innes our WWII historian directed us to significant sites and explained in detail the historical significance of the areas visited.
In May 1942 Japanese invaded, but by August US forces landed at Blue Beach and recaptured the island in one day. However, inside deep, reinforced dugouts and caves, many of the Japanese refused to surrender, hiding, fighting and eventually dying in the deep caverns. After the war, Tulagi was too badly damaged to remain the national capital, so the honour was passed to Honiara.
Our morning was taken up with a choice of three areas of investigation. Group 1 hiked up into the forest to visit WWII sites. Group 2 hiked out into the surrounding area of Tulagi searching for plants and birds. Group 3 explored the local Tulagi markets and got to know the local and the local foods.
The afternoon was spent in two locations, firstly a zodiac cruise of Purvis Bay to investigate the remains of the Japanese Destroyer Kukutsuki and the US LST 342. The second group enjoyed a fish and coral filled snorkel.
At 1800 Odyssey passengers and crew stopped to pay respects to the WWII servicemen who died off Guadalcanal, Iron Bottom Sound with a Wreath-Casting Ceremony. John Innes conducted the ceremony with the colours of a magnificent sunset as a fitting backdrop.
13/3/2009
NEW GEORGIA ISLAND & KENNEDY ISLAND, SOLOMON ISLANDS
Some tricky navigation brought us into Viru Harbour on New Georgia Island. A more dramatic and stunning harbour entry we have not seen. Heavily forested cliffs reached up either side of the Odyssey as we made our way into Viru Harbour and toward our destination, Kobe Village.
The village children awaited us on the shore and escorted us up the winding track to a formal welcome by the village folk. A dramatic re-enactment of traditional ways followed with warriors magically appearing from out of the bush in full war cry. Further up the track were women grinding taro in traditional dress announcing a more peaceful side of village life.
Village school children awaited us at the top of the hill with songs of welcome and a market place that offered the highest quality craftsmanship in carving and weaving. The shoppers amongst us had found heaven. For the naturalists, birds and bats were abundant as we strolled through beautiful village gardens displaying native plants in full bloom.
The afternoon offered snorkellers the opportunity to investigate reefs around Kennedy Island while others strolled this beautiful little island contemplating the information offered by John’s World War II lecture ‘New Georgia Campaign and the Coast Watchers’ focusing on John F. Kennedy’s survival and other significant events around this area.
The evening concluded with a formal dinner under the stars on the pool deck and a happy time with the locals and some of our talented singing staff members.
14/3/2009
NEW GEORGIA AND VELLA LAVELLA, SOLOMON ISLANDS
Sunrise viewed from the pool deck was spectacular as we set sail for Enoghe Inlet. On arrival we set out in zodiacs to cruise the Enoghe Inlet shoreline to view the Japanese WWII anti-aircraft guns. This zodiac cruise turned into quite an adventure as the marine, bird and plant life revealed some of its most amazing life forms.
Our zodiacs wove in and out of mangroves and under huge Pandanus and Fish-poison trees. At one stop we viewed a magnificent ancient cycad that towered two stories high stating its age at well over 150 years. While our eyes were skyward we were treated to sightings of the Solomon Sea Eagle, Brahminy Kite, Ducoup’s Cockatoo, Moustached Tree Swift, Willy-Wagtail and the White-Bellied Cuckoo-Shrike.
As our zodiacs continued weaving around WWII guns and ship wrecks we were lucky enough to sight a White-Tipped Reef Shark, Moray Eel, Giant Clams and numerous tropical fish.
As we bid good-bye to John Innes our WWII expert and Danny Kennedy we set sail for Vella Lavella , Barakoma airfield the home base for VMF-214 “Black Sheep” Squadron led by Gregory Boyington.
The afternoon was perfect as we snorkelled at a coral reef site claimed as the most bio-diverse in the world. It certainly met this claim with teaming fish life and magnificent corals.
The day concluded with a rollicking night in the Main Lounge with ‘Liars Club’, well done to the ‘Magical Fantastic Airstrip’ team and the ‘Great Adventurers’ who tied for the big win.
15/3/2009
BUKA ISLAND, PAPUA NEW GUINEA
Early risers were rewarded with a dramatic skyline, thunderous clouds and a day that threatened constant rain. This all meant little to our mornings activities at sea, starting with a lecture from Charley ‘The Future of the Oceans’ followed by Shirley ‘The Art of Kula’. Both lectures were outstanding and set the mood for our visit to Buka Island.
Our docking at Buka Island was met with hundreds of locals and two magnificent cultural performances. We enjoyed the dockside performances from the pool deck balcony and were happy of this shelter when a heavy rainstorm hit and lasted for 45 minutes. The rain did not dampen the locals enthusiasm for our arrival as a sea of colourful umbrellas bloomed across the dockland area.
The formal tour of Buka Island was filled with sites of local pride such as Parliament House, local schools, the Botanical Gardens (with a twist) and a final destination at a resort complex filled with handy craft markets and local singers and dancers.
The day concluded with a wonderful farewell from the local Buka Island residents lining the dock area. We left Buka Island with a feeling of elation and total satisfaction of having met some of the most amazingly brave, happy and proud island people in the world.
16/3/2009
RABAUL, EAST NEW BRITAIN ISLAND
Our day in Rabaul was dominated by one overwhelming entity, Tuvurvur Volcano. As the Odyssey found its way into Rabaul Port we were completely captivated by the highly active Tuvurvur, deep rumblings echoed from the gaping mouth as plumes of smoke and ash poured into the sky.
On arrival at Rabaul dock a unique welcome ceremony awaited us. Two green painted men and one charcoal encrusted man performed a ritual of masculine endurance and strength. The green men knelt and invited the charcoal man to whip them with light cane straps. The sight and sound of this spectacular ‘whipping’ display invites the viewer to perceive the whipped individuals as brave, strong and vital men.
On disembarkation we split into three groups to explore the island. Group 1 visited the Japanese Barge Tunnel, Blue Lagoon Lookout, Kokopo Museum and Queen Emma’s Cemetery. Group 2 visited the local markets and explored the local town area. Group 3 explored the natural habitat.
The afternoon visit to the hot springs at the foot of Tuvurvur, revealed the utter devastation of the old Rabaul landscape that suffered from the dual eruptions of Tuvurvur and Volcan volcanos in 1994. We drove through a lunar landscape of ash and the eerie shapes of dead trees and palms that had once lined residential streets and commercial avenues. Approaching the hot springs we were struck silent by the manifest energy emanating from Tuvurvur Volcano, it seemed to breath and then roar with anger as it spat molten rocks and ash high into the sky.
Our day of high adventure concluded with an evening pyrotechnic show from Tuvurvur to rival any New Years Eve celebration. Tuvurvur had captured our attention and imagination at every vantage point throughout the day and continued to fill us with awe as we sailed past her, moving on with our exploration of PNG territories.
17/3/2009
It was a green kind of day… ‘Happy St Patrick’s Day!”
A day at sea was welcome to rest, relax, read and of course, learn. John started off our lecture series today with ‘Food for Thought’ followed by Pepper ‘Wildlife CSI’.
A few bonny Irish hats were seen at lunch in the Day Lounge.
Then an afternoon of learning continued with the screening of the documentary ‘World at War – Pacific: February 1942 – July 1945’ in the Main Lounge.
A lot of impressive items were viewed at the ‘Show & Tell’ afternoon tea where our souvenir purchases were displayed. Many a green eye was cast over some spectacular art and craft items heading back home with their proud new owners.
18/3/2009
SEPIK RIVER, PAPUA NEW GUINEA
Our last day of expedition travel … we were all up early anticipating a most exciting visit to the mouth of the Sepik River.
But first we must travel on and therefore fill our morning with lectures on other intrepid adventurers. Shirley started the morning with a lecture on ‘Discovering Captain Cook’, which left everyone a little exhausted at the amount of adventurers one man can fit into his life.
Pepper followed with a true love story, ‘Love on the Wing: A Bird’s-Eye View of Mating Systems’ his little orange friends really know how to have fun.
Then came the announcement we were all waiting for, disembarkation for expedition excursion up the Sepik River and visit to a Sepik village. The current ran strong as the Odyssey strained at it anchor in the mouth of the Sepik River. Zodiacs struggled to fight against the same current and deliver us to the Kopar Village to wander freely amongst the locals and experience a rare treat of visiting a village in full swing, not readied for a ‘tourist’ visit. People were busy … sago was being strained while racks of mussels were suspended over fires slowly drying. Master mask makers and costume makers were hidden away working toward some great celebration. Children ran, played and swam oblivious of our presence, it was a delightful time for us all.
Boarding zodiacs we set off up the Sepik River to investigate this vast stretch of water and explore narrow tributaries lined with palm trees, sago palm, vines and small family groups processing their own sago.
Back on the Odyssey we celebrated the evening at the Captain’s Farewell Cocktails and Dinner.
What a magnificent day to hold in our memories and to finish our Voyage To Melanesia.
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